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 Post subject: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:01 am 

Joined: Sat Jun 11, 2011 11:11 pm
Posts: 464
Location: New Zealand
Whats the best way to go no head gaskets?
My heads will be going in a lathe at some stage soon for squish band rework. Do I run a viton o-ring or something else or just copper spray? And does this effect heat transfer to any ill effect between head and barrel?
Cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:31 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:12 am
Posts: 238
Location: Queenborough U.K
You don't have to use an o ring, just a smear of jointing compound,
as for heat dissipation ,I've never given it a thought :shock:


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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 9:02 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
I prefer Viton O-rings, and have been running them in my H2 for a few years now. You can pop a head off and inspect things, and put it on without having to mess with sealer, and the seal is absolutely leak free.

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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 3:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:30 pm
Posts: 27
Location: West of Seattle
Jim, What is the part number for your Viton O-rings for your H2? I am thinking about having my heads cut when I get the squish done and cylinders decked.

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72 H2 #5297, Charlie crank, WFT pipes, Wossners, TMS38, 15 plate Barnet, SyTech, Denco Pusher, KZ750 frt/rear,
EX500 discs, all LED, 73 Oil pump, Darth Oil check/springs, 75 2-3 shift fork
To Do: Squish, 2MM Lift, Portwork, Zeel


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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2017 4:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
I used a 100 series size, which is nominally 3/32" cross section. It was difficult to keep the groove away from the bore, but not be too close to the stud holes. If I do it again, I'll use a 000 series, 1/16" cross section. Go to the Parker O-ring handbook on the resource site, and find the internal pressure face seal section. It will give you all the standard O-ring sizes, as well as the proper groove dimensions. Then you can pick the best one for an H2 head.

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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:27 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:59 pm
Posts: 313
Location: South Australia
Coops has an H1.

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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 11:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
Neville Lush wrote:
Coops has an H1.


Nev, Bitbuckit asked what O-ring size I used on my H2. If Coops wants to O-ring his heads, I'd recommend the same thing though, use the 1/16" cross section and pick one that fits.

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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 7:10 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:59 pm
Posts: 313
Location: South Australia
Oops. Sorry Jim.

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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:39 am
Posts: 78
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Jim wrote:
I used a 100 series size, which is nominally 3/32" cross section. It was difficult to keep the groove away from the bore, but not be too close to the stud holes. If I do it again, I'll use a 000 series, 1/16" cross section. Go to the Parker O-ring handbook on the resource site, and find the internal pressure face seal section. It will give you all the standard O-ring sizes, as well as the proper groove dimensions. Then you can pick the best one for an H2 head.


Can you post up any pictures of the grooving on your cylinders? I'm familiar with the Oring Gospels according to Parker (attached excerpt I think you are referring to)...thinking about doing this to my H1...that is using Viton Orings instead of the copper gaskets

Did you do the machining yourself?

Thanks!


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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 Post subject: Re: No head gasket?
PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
Sorry, I don't have any photos, and the heads are on the engine now. But you have the correct information in that diagram, just use the dimensions for a face seal with internal pressure. Pick an O-ring size that has groove dimensions that clear the stud holes and stays away from the bore far enough to allow future rebores.

Yes, I did the machining of the grooves while I was correcting the squish bands and chamber volume. You will not regret going to O-rings if you do it.

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