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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 3:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 9809
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Man, that bearing is SHOT! :shock:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 4:41 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:39 pm
Posts: 657
Location: Narooma NSW Aus
looks like you have a bit of work to do :cry: , new crank bearing required :shh: , they are a nice engine to do anyway :clap: , good luck with it , urs Al in Aus


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 7:48 pm 

Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2015 6:05 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Boston, MA
Ja-Moo wrote:
Man, that bearing is SHOT! :shock:


Damn, it's that bad eh? :cry:

Looks like I'll have to get someone to rebuild this soon.
Does it seem likely that this is the cause of the leaking?
I have no problem with sending this out to get fixed, but that would suck to get a fancy new shiny crank back in only to find out its still smoking :shock:
Any plausible way to test that this is in fact causing the leak?


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2017 9:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 2367
Yes, that bearing is gone. And, so is at least one more main bearing on the crank.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:02 am 

Joined: Mon Aug 06, 2012 2:57 pm
Posts: 790
Location: Monterey Ca
Nice video, your probably done testing. Problem will be solved with the rebuild and new seals

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 12:45 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 2367
You are actually lucky to have found the bearing problem, before the ball guide broke, and made much more serious issues. I would think the inner seal race is also eaten away, it is the pressure side of the seal, but, it gone, clear path to oil from trans case with that bearing as bad as it is. Hope there is no piston/bore damage from the bearing and seal being toast.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 2:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 226
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Just on this point of disintegrating bearings, years ago with high rev two strokes we found the bearing cages that lived the longest were the riveted type, spot welded or folded not so much. Even better were phenolic cages, but those were specialized types and not always available in many sizes. Had the best luck with real German FAG bearings, and seriously, never use unmarked Chinese bearings.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1983 Kawasaki KZ1100 Spectre, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 2:13 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 2367
We found bearings that weren't the right ones that were built by FAG/Norma, that we pulled the ball guides out of for our Japanese bearings, used them over and over again, never had a problem. They were teflon, and snapped in place easily, lived way past 13K rpms in the TZ's. This is the main reason the original H1R cranks all had 6 roller main bearings on them.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2017 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 226
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Yes, Parilla kart engines use that type cage and the 100cc will go to 18k and live easily. Have to always make sure they are C3 clearance, less and they don't survive.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1983 Kawasaki KZ1100 Spectre, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2017 11:29 am 

Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2015 6:05 pm
Posts: 28
Location: Boston, MA
Thanks again guys for helping me find the source of this problem, especially before it got significantly worse :thumbup:
going to be pulling the engine asap and sending out the crank to be rebuilt. If I remember, I'll post a confirmation that this fixes the issue when the crank is back in.


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