Kawi2strokes.com Forum

There are "computer" hands, and there are big burly "workin" hands.......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

You need to get back to your H1 John, it's likely the vibrations from the H2 that causes the lack of feeling with your meat hooks.

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http://kawatriple.com/wtf/

Good points on the hydraulic clutches from the two above. I presently have two cars with hydraulic clutches, and they feel just like the linkage ones on the rest of the stick equipped cars and trucks I own. Along the way, I have owned several cars and motorcycles with hydraulic clutch actuators, liked all of them.

Hydraulic systems follow the same BASIC "leverage ratio" science as solid, and/or cable clutches, get the pusher ram size matched to the pushed ram size, clutch feels good, works well. It is just like putting a master cylinder for a brake system on that makes the lever pull feel the way you want it to, lots of variables in what yu, and the system can obtain.

That might work, set the master size for a 4 finger pull..............

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

So I'm still having clutch problems. I got the new 2.5mm thick NOS hub thrust washer installed along with another set of friction plates. It now
has enough engagement to kick over but it slips as soon as you try to accelerate. Is there any difference between a H1 and H2 clutch hub?
Somethings wrong because it's real easy to install the clutch spring bolts, there is no tension. On all my other triples you have to push in hard to
get the bolts for the springs into the hub. I set the modified hub next to the used one I bought and you can see the old one was machined much
more that 30 thousands. The hub set so far in the basket I can see why he was not using the 5/16" ball bearing. Also it was set up with
8 steel plates and 9 frictions with the ball bearing type release.

So for some reason I don't have enough pressure on the clutch even with Ralf's release backed all the way out. I did check and at that point
the bearing pusher was not touching the pressure plate to. So I can maybe add a extra steel plate and put that in first? Go back to the modified
hub and run the extra plates but try it with 7 steel and 8 friction? With 8 steel and 9 friction it won't fully dis-engage.

Iv'e never had any clutch problems with any triple till this one, going in circles. The basket does have the correct thicker thrust washer to.
Here is a picture of the hubs, the modified one is on the left.

I'm not sure why you were messing with it in the first place, it was working. Either put it all back to how it was, or get a complete new/used clutch assembly.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Because it was not working correctly, it slipped. The ball bearing release was destroying the seal because it wasn't modified and didn't have
the right seal for that type of release. The set up I'm trying to use has worked in over a dozen other triples I have done. Ralf's release,
ball bearing pusher, 5 HD barrnet springs, 6 steel plates and 7 good frictions. Pull on the lever is pretty easy, I have strong hands anyway.
Something is not right, thinking hub. Not enough pressure even when you take out the pusher.

are they new barnette springs?

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Yes, old style NOS MT-58-5, same length as stock springs but with thicker coil. The problem is there is not tension from the plates when you set the
pressure plate on. Pressure plate is NOS, thrust washer is NOS, only hub is used but it doesn't look like it's been machined. I don't have any H1 hubs
on hand to compare. The pressure plate touches the hub acting like there is not enough plates. Using 6 steel H2 plates and 7 frictions. I tested
by adding one extra friction plate and it does fully engage but slips because of two friction plates together. Going to try adding one extra steel plate
and put it in first before the first friction. I think the H2 steels are around 2.7mm? That may make it fully engage but will probably not fully dis=engage.
Something is not right. Going to contact Ralf at this point and order one of his lock-up clutches and be done with it.

" you have to push in hard to get the bolts for the springs into the hub".

To get them started? Not mine, start by hand but they tension up as I tighten them. Maybe I misread this?
bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...