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 Post subject: H2 clutch frustrations
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
When I took my engine apart 2 weeks ago I decided to also set the clutch up Like I
have on almost ever triple I have built. Ralf's release, ball bearing pusher, Barnett
gold heavy duty springs and clutch friction plates from Z1. This set up has worked on
my other two 72's, and about six others I have built for friends.

So I bought a new aluminum pressure plate, good used hub, Ralf's release and
got the ball bearing pusher from Z1. Already had a set of friction plates in stock
so I put it all together.

For some reason the clutch won't fully engage even when I back out the
allen adjuster screw on the release. I test it buy trying to kick the engine
over with the kick starter and the clutch just doesn't engage enough.
Have the correct thick washer in back of the basket and the thinner one
under the hub. Correct push rods and the 5/16" ball . I'm thinking there
must be a problem with the ball bearing pusher. Looks different than
the ones the Ralf makes. It's the same length as a stock pusher
and has a recess for the steel ball.

I am using the correct number of 6 steel plates and seven friction with the expander rings to


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Measure the pusher as compared to the stock one.... exclude recess.
Sometimes Z parts are shown as also fit for H2 and that is not always true... not sure about this situation.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
Well I'm going to take it all apart and measure everything and try to find the cause of the problem. This was the motor that George Roach
built and had a modified clutch pressure plate with a bearing installed inside of it. The hub was modified to and it had 7 steel plates and 8
friction installed. Also had a factory late ball bearing release that was hitting the seal. That's what got me to change out everything and use
what I have in the past on my other bikes. Also there was no 5/16th ball with his set up. I had it adjusted so it fully engaged and dis-engaged
but it would slip when you got on it hard.

I'm going to measure the length of the old hub and compare it to the new one. As it is now, the only way I can get it to engage is to run the extra
steel plate and fiber disc. Doing that it won't fully dis-engage because I haven't modified the new hub. Tried making a second hole on the release
arm closer to the center and all that did was make the clutch lever harder to pull. Seemed not to even pull the release as much either. This is
with a NOS pressure plate and a good original hub.

Before I installed the ball bearing pusher I did match it up to the stock one and they where the same length. But when you factor in the recess
for the steel ball it makes the ball bearing pusher shorter by half the distance of the 5/16" ball. I would think that would cause the clutch not to
fully dis-engage with the correct 6 steel and 7 fibers but it won't fully engage.

Going to also measure the long push rod and make sure it's the stock length. Maybe he made it longer to make up the distance for not using
the 5/16" steel ball. Was that something guys did for some reason years ago? But I backed out the release allen screw all the way also to see if the
clutch would fully engage with 6 steel and 7 fibers and something was adding length somewhere and pushing on the pressure plate.

This one has got me stumped. :wtf:

To much length between to release and the pressure plate?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
You are working with a modified motor, is there are going to be custom changes. Have you checked if she will kick over with the actuator removed?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 9:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
Pulling it all apart again tonight and check everything. To much length somewhere between the release and pusher is my guess.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:52 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
Found the problem, the washer under the hub is to thin. Since the original clutch was set up for 7 steel and 8 friction plates he must have
thinned the washer instead of machining the base of the hub. With no pusher installed and the correct 6 steel and 7 friction the clutch
wouldn't engage. So all this because of a washer :banghead Found a NOS one local so I can wrap this up :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 2:39 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
I've always moved the cable clevis outward from the center of the release.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 7:15 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
That makes sense Dave. Someone told me to move it closer to center. I could tell when I pulled the cable the arm didn't move as much.
No problem, will be fixed with the correct hub thrust washer.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:04 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
I had thought first that George had managed to use H1R-H2R steel plates, they are quite a bit thinner than street bike steels.

Good to see you are winning the war with it. George had some very strange ways about him.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
Moving the hole in the arm closer to the center makes the clutch actuator move farther, increasing disengagement, but also increasing lever force. Moving it farther from the center makes the actuator move less far, decreasing lever force, but reducing disengagement.

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