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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:25 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:22 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Central Ohio
H-2 wheel, brass or bronze cable end REALLY tightened/bottomed out on speedo drive. The part that the cable end was threaded onto, spins in the housing when I try to spin the cable end off, with pliers or channelocks..

Just the threaded cable end and the swaged sleeve is all that's left of the cable... That's how I found it...

Anyone have ideas about how to save this speedo drive unit?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 7:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:41 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: Mount Vision, NY
Threaded collar cable screws on to is also shot on my 400s tachometer.
I am curious to learn a way to fix that myself.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 2:29 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 06, 2015 6:01 am
Posts: 297
Location: Metamora, MI
My fix. All remaining threads must be carefully removed from housing. Collar fits over remaining casting and secured with set screw. Housing must have a pocket to accept point of set screw. Set screw is finger tight into said pocket and loctited. Do not tighten set screw too much or it binds shaft underneath casting!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 7:05 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
Posts: 1901
Location: Campbellville Ontario
Maybe cut the cable "nut" off with a Dremel and then lock the threaded male end of the drive in place with Loctite or a little epoxy. You'll be buying a new cable, but..?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 4:16 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:22 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Central Ohio
I had had thoughts about dremeling the collar off...

I was thinking I would have to remove the swagged sleeve somehow, then slotting across the top of the collar, then slotting as far down the sides of the collar, without grinding into the drive's main body, and WITHOUT grinding so far as to impact the steel threads on the drive body.....

This means to be gingerly applying pressure with the dremel, so as to not break through and cut or grind into those threads. Long term grind project....

Then, I'd have to try to open the collar halves, sort of like a clam shell...

But, I don't think this is possible, as the bottom of the collar is against the drive body, there is no room to move down by.
Both the body and collar threads have nowhere to move.

I may just have to slot the collar as previously stated, then somehow split one slot open, and thus drive the halves apart.....

Yes, I already have a new cable.

Altered image, THAT is an interesting idea, but I don't wish to go into such a machining nightmare! I do not have any machinery to accomplish that mod, and I am trying to save the threads to be able to reuse this new cable I already bought...


Last edited by rickman on Tue Aug 01, 2017 4:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:41 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: Mount Vision, NY
Ask Don who repairs gauges....

Kinda thought he would have chimed in by now lol

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 4:50 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:22 pm
Posts: 44
Location: Central Ohio
NOT to hijack my own thread, but I wonder if anyone has an instrument mount off their bike, so I could maybe get a tracing of the mount, and the position of the mount studs?

So I literally don't have to re-engineer the whole thing. I will need three of these made... And one of 'em will have me trying to reposition the tach mounting location, as I will be placing a Smiths chronometric tach on the mount...

... I guess I'll need to find out just who "Don" is, I think one of the four gauges I picked up is actually a triple clock, and the cable entry is very rusty looking.

But on these BSA's, I don't need a 120+ mph capable speedo, I'm not going to attempt LSR speeds... The other three clocks are 80-100 mph marked, plenty high enough.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3822
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
III wrote:
Ask Don who repairs gauges....

Kinda thought he would have chimed in by now lol


Me too Steve.

Rickman, Don's in the vendor list so I can share his contact info -- don't know his board name here.
Donald Fulsang 407-323-3597 bikenut@aol.com

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
Posts: 1901
Location: Campbellville Ontario
That collar will cut like butter with a Dremel and you could split it without getting all the way through to the threads - it's pretty weak metal.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:41 pm
Posts: 3489
Location: Mount Vision, NY
http://kawatriple.com/vendspl.html

Ya gotsta look man....

Barry did.

Now that I went to ALL THAT WORK getting a link


I bet he has videos of the insides and I happen to know a guy
who also does outstanding work on gauges.
One of them hosers from the Canadian forum and can be a bit dodgy they say...

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