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VM 34s on H1
http://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12967		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  COOPS [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 9:23 pm ]
Post subject:  VM 34s on H1
Bloody tight. Ive ground a bit off the top of the cases and a bit off the nipples that poke out of the float bowl.(they clear) But I still have 2mm interference on the right bowl drain nut. I could gain 1 more mm if I grind the nut but I really need more. I don't really want it touching.
What do others do here?

I could remake the adapter plate, but il only gain a mil or two. Running out of time. Does it have to clear? it may froth the fuel if not.

I could do a bodgy and remove the nut and weld a we plate on the hole! :?
Author:  Ja-Moo [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 10:31 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
If they hit they froth, at least mine did. Just do what you have to. And this is the reason I make the adapters now.
Author:  COOPS [ Fri Jul 21, 2017 11:25 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
OK thanks. When I made the plates I didn't know about this problem. If I had I would've made them slightly different. I'm not going to remake them as they are matched to the barrels and I cant be naffed.
I think I will just make a new bowl drain nut. Will be tricky on our P.O.S lathe. Might have to buy a die nut.
Cheers.
Author:  COOPS [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 3:46 am ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
While we are on the subject of frothing.........
I am going to use the lugs on the slide bodys and tie the three carbs together with some 6mm threaded rod. I recon this will give them more mass/stiffness and reduce frothing.
If I am wrong, stuff yuz. :lol:
Author:  RODH2 [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 5:42 am ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
That was the trick back in the day, and is Legit......I used a piece of Carbon fibre/Boron/Titanium Laminate Fishing rod for the same thing!! :think:
Author:  H2RTuner [ Sat Jul 22, 2017 6:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
Of course, the race engines all used rubber carb mounts, and were angled to make the 35mm carbs not hit stuff.

They were all tied together with two metal devices. One was a plate that fit to the carb bowl screws, flat across the carbs.

The second was a rod and spacer device through the body upper groove boss just above the air inlet horns.

Worked nicely, even on a street engine.
Author:  COOPS [ Sun Jul 23, 2017 3:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
COOL. so I was right guessing I should use the lugs provided.
While we are talking carbs....filters.......Like the look of the 3" velocity stacks with brass gauze. (genuine Mikuni)
Do they work OK?
I want at least gauze to stop stones. (remember this is a race bike only)
Author:  Ja-Moo [ Sun Jul 23, 2017 9:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
Unless you are racing for money, or have a ton of it, the few "possible" hp you get from stacks is really not worth it. The rocks stop a motor, the fine stuff that gets through grind the bearings and cylinders up. And anyway the airflow smoothing effect of stacks is totally negated by the screens anyway. Just get some good foam filters and enjoy the fact the other guys are grinding their motors to shreds. :thumbup:
Author:  H2RTuner [ Sun Jul 23, 2017 1:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: VM 34s on H1
From my experiences, any "stand off" distance from the carb inlet helps carburetion and jetting. I am not a large fan of individual filters, especially Uni Foam, stuck right on the end of the carb. I ran K&N's on my street H2R engine for decades, with a twist, they had 2 inches of stand off "plumbing" to move them back from the carb edge. This is why stock air ducting works so well for a system, IF it fits. I realize this is for a set of 34's, but, for stockers, all I have ever done is to remove the stock air filter canister from the duct, insert a support ring in its inlet, and stick a large round K&N in place of the can.

ONLY times I have ever run foam folters is when we ran the Baja races, 500/1000. We used to install a K&N in the stock can, with an opening big enough to reach in and tear away the foam filter we covered the K&N with, so, when the foam filter got plugged enough to literally stop the engine, all we had to do was reach down, tear the foam away, and go back to full throttle.

Everyone has their preferences, I like the K&N filters.

Hardware stores have a lot of stuff we tinkerers just love to use for other projects.
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