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PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:17 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Over the years of working on these things, I have seen more shift claw not center because of the spring, and/or the stop pin not centering the claw on the drum pins. I've never seen the claw ends worn, nor the pins in the end of the drum worn out. I have also seen quite a few hair pin springs with wear grooves in them, which also stops the centering of the claw to the drum pins.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Everything is centered Dave, the pins are not worn or bent, springs seems to do what they're supposed to do. Stop and it's spring are OK.

I would agree about the claw/pawl being worn. Both the working one I have and the spare mic out the same and I don't see any wear on them but I bought a NOS one anyway.

I'm posing two YouTube vids now. Not using the claw it seems to shift easier than with the case together and using it.... see the difference in the two vids

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Two videos showing shifting without the shiftshaft and claw and one with it.

It seems the claw/pawl does not always move forward enough or backward enough but not always in the same gear change.

Shifting without shiftshaft
https://youtu.be/dRXAL_JlrB4

Shifting WITH shiftshaft
https://youtu.be/FYBo_3HruGQ

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 8:58 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
I am going to go over a bunch of things here. First, I had to use my lady friend's special "ceiling shoes", the ones she suspends herself up side down from the ceiling with when we.......well, (ahem).....that isn't important here. I watched both videos on my SMART phone, too small for an old geezer, now, on my nice big screen, saw a lot more this way.

To make the trans shift easier while doing the tests, I take a strap tool and strap the input shaft to stop it from turning, and only spin the output shaft. I saw that the trans wouldn't go into gear easily when the tests were being done, and, this is the reason, both shafts were spinning. Nothing wrong with that at all, just makes it harder to complete the shifting tests.

It also appears the shift stop pin is OK as well. This is the pin I keep mentioning, in the lever square opening near the shaft end. If that screw were bent, the shifts in one direction would be good, not good the other way. This is the pin that usually gets bent when a bike falls over on its shifter linkages, and is the pin the bulletin outlines replacing to get an adjustable one in place. I have literally taken a not so severely bent pin and simply rotated it a quarter turn in the cases, sets the centering stop back to center.Looks like the centering at rest is tight, no slop, spring is good as well.

You might humor me one more time, and back the lock nut off on the stop pin, and rotate it in its threads, see if is bent, or straight.

If you still have the cover off the end of the drum, and can see all the pins, and the claw, when the claw is in its center rest position, are the claws the same distances from each pin in the drum? If not, this can cause the same shifting dilemmas that a bent stop pin creates, goes good one direction, doesn't go without work the other way. Fix is to do something to center the claws on the pins, with the stop pin. I have intentionally bent the stop pin, cut away small areas of the stop square hole to get the claws centered.

It also looks like the detent spring is in good shape. This is the spring that holds the 90 degree lever to the shift drum pins to hold the drum in specific gears. Too soft, worn, stretched, they have shifting issues.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:55 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Something else just came to mind, shift lever linkage. IF the linkage has been readjusted, it might be binding against itself. Linkage can hit the pipe on down shift, bind on upshift if the linkage rod has been lengthened to compensate for the lower lever being on the wrong serration on the shift shaft.

It's just a thought.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 8:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Thanks Dave --- it's not the linkage - LOL... I'm at a loss right now. Ron will be passing through here in the next few days - maybe he'll have an idea.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:11 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Last thing, the spacer stack on the shift shaft between the case and clutch cover too tight, binding up when engine gets hot? Extra spacer where it shouldn't be? Outer end spacer on shaft backwards, but it looked right in the videos?

I'm now just throwing out ideas.

You and Ron will get it dialed in and fixed.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
This is definitely a gear locking -- solid can't change.

_________________
This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 11:38 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
I think I'd also take a closer look at the forks, the way they sit on the drum, the alignment bolts, grooves in the drum, and even the neutral switch ground on the end of the drum.

As I said, just pitching ideas out to you at this point.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
H2RTuner wrote:
I think I'd also take a closer look at the forks, the way they sit on the drum, the alignment bolts, grooves in the drum, and even the neutral switch ground on the end of the drum.

As I said, just pitching ideas out to you at this point.


Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Forks fine, nothing worn, rubbing or binding - drum and guide pins are perfect.

Neutral switch! LOL -- gone years ago.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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