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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 3:22 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
Hi all.

As per the title I have the red charge light. I rode the bike and after a few miles it began to flicker around 4000 rpm.
So got it back, starter at the rotor and found my carbon brushes were really short and had no travel left. So replaced those. Red light still, now it's on most the time. I checked the stator cables.
I checked the rotor and that failed the 6volt hot test. So got that rebuilt. I've checked the regulator on the bench and the wiring and the ohms checked out. I replaced the rectifier as that also failed the test. Got the rotor back yesterday, plumbed it in and I now have a dim red light. At 4000rpm I'm getting 13 to 16 Volts and the Volts bounce all over not really steady . Am I right in that the regulator should control that and keep it below 15Volts? can somebody confirm how to test the stator, just so I'm not missing something. My guess it's the regulator first then maybe the stator next. Any ideas folks?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 4:58 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4603
Location: Milang, South Australia
I am not an Electrician, by any means, but when I had a H1 in 1970, I raced it , and spent a lot of time at high revs. They had a problem in that the wires in the rotor could break due to centrifugal force, creating a short, and a red light situation....... You say you had the rotor "re-built", I had a couple taken apart and rewound, which fixed the problem. :think:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Quote:
At 4000rpm I'm getting 13 to 16 Volts and the Volts bounce all over not really steady .
With 13-16 volts at battery the red light should NOT be illuminated.
If you are using a digital meter it will bounce all over.... use an analog meter.


Am I right in that the regulator should control that and keep it below 15Volts?
Yes, voltage regulator should keep voltage below 15V as measured with analog meter.

can somebody confirm how to test the stator, just so I'm not missing something.
If you have 13-16 vdc at the battery there is nothing wrong with the stator.

My guess it's the regulator first then maybe the stator next.
If voltage is high as measured with analog meter the regulator would be suspect. It is the only component that would cause high voltage at the battery.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 10:46 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
How would I know it's not the rectifier? I've tested it off the bike, is there any test or indication on the bike that the rectifier is good or bad.

Thanks for the replies, yes ive had my rotor re wound.

It sounds like a regulator so far.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
If the rectifier (or ANY charging component) was faulty you would not see 13-16vdc at the battery... it would be much less.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:16 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:12 am
Posts: 238
Location: Queenborough U.K
If your meter is digital it's not giving you the correct information as the interference from the ignition system will upset the meter, you need a cheap analog type.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 6:29 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:12 am
Posts: 238
Location: Queenborough U.K
I have now read the thread slowly , It would appear you have output, but it is low due to one phase being out
Go back and check the continuity of the alternator windings (3x yellows), if ok recheck or replace the rectifier ,
when doing running check, you must use an analog meter ,due to interference generated by the ignition system when running

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solid-state-r ... SwMmBV5OAb


You can make a 3 phase rec using two of these, link the two negs together , then the two pos connectors together, the run a lead from the pos pair to the pos of the battery, and the same with the neg connections.
The three yellows run to the other connectors with the wavy symbol on them one to each, you will have one connector empty ,just leave it


Last edited by tankie on Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 7:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Quote:
It would appear you have output, but it is low due to one phase being out

What makes you think it is low output?
If he's measuring 13-16 VDC at the battery it wouldn't be low.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07, 2017 9:42 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:12 am
Posts: 238
Location: Queenborough U.K
The reason is 1, I think he is using a digital meter which is susceptible to outside interference, so readings are not accurate
2,The bulb works on voltage differential and is just glowing ,so could be 1 phase down giving low output


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 9:36 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
Hi all, sorry for the delay, been away with work.so fresh hands and eyes, Got an analogue multimeter and started at the stator.
I put my leads across the three yellows, got readings from 0 ohms to 0.1ohms then across black and green from the feild winding, it's infinite. So problem a found. Tried yellows across black and green and infinite again. So next question who's best for simply fixing these black magic wonders? Doesn't matter if it's state side or UK. Sometimes it's cheaper to get things fixed in the states including all the fees and postage compared to the UK.


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