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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 11:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
You may be able to see where the problem is and fix it.
The likely place would be where the green or black wire attaches to the stator coil.
Sometimes the solder connection develops a "cold" solder joint and simply reflowing the solder will fix it.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 12:09 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
As RodH2 stated above, early rotors were very subject to over revving, and the centrifugal force would break the wire strand. Sometimes, the break would stop the rotor completely from becoming a magnet, other times, intermittently. Proper resistance is between 2.5 and 5.5 ohms, Test both cold, and hot if possible.

It doesn't take much to over rev the rotor windings, one good high rev missed shift could do it.

Slip rings get dirty as well, easiest way to clean them is to pull the brush holder out, fire the engine up, use Scotch-Brite or some other form of mild abrasive pad to clean the rings as they spin.

Some very few rotors I have seen actually spun one of the yokes on the rotor, on its mounting axis. This should be very evident in looking at the rotor. The distances between the outer legs on the side will not be set the same, one will be closer to one from the other direction, if this occurs, you will see it upon investigation.

I remember that there used to be specialty people around that rewound these rotors, with better wire, that resisted strand breakage. Haven't seen that service offered in a decade or so.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 1:26 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
Hi I've had the rotor rebuilt, re wound, as it was out on the hot test, it's really clean on the face and I replaced the brushes and filed them flat to meet the rotor square.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 3:11 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:12 am
Posts: 238
Location: Queenborough U.K
So ,with the rotor and brushes in place , use the multi meter to check that you have a circuit up to the regulator


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 5:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Did I miss something?
Quote:
across black and green from the field winding, it's infinite

I took it from this post that the field winding was open.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 1:09 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 2:00 am
Posts: 1010
Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
The issue with the early rotor is the slip ring becomes loose from the steel casting. As such the leads to the windings get fatigued and go intermittent. Even though you had your rotor re-wound the leads may be still at fault.

Here are the fixes for both the rotor and the rest of the system:

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/regulat ... ersion.htm

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/rotor/rotormod.htm

J


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:29 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
Hi all

Firstly must apologise for causing confusion, the black and green wire were infinite because the stator was removed from the bike.

Started again, with a analogue meter across the battery I got 12.5 Volts at 4000rpm

So checked rotor got 4 ohms. Checked stator again and all good.

Then moved to regulator that measured 55.8 ohms, 0.8 ohms more than the book figure. The points are clean and not pitted.

Then went to the rectifier, did the test as per the triple resources website. Following the wording and checking my results 4 times. I have as follows. The yellows read 4 ohms one way and when I reverse the leads they measure infinite. When I measured the blue and red I get 18 ohms one way and infinite the other. So am I correct in thinking it's the rectifier? Even though I fitted a modern replacement that now gives the same readings as the old original one. Can't be much else to look at.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:43 pm
Posts: 561
Carbon brushes to rotor contact is
Most likely if it's going on and off

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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 2:48 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:12 am
Posts: 238
Location: Queenborough U.K
Chris46 wrote:
Hi all

Firstly must apologise for causing confusion, the black and green wire were infinite because the stator was removed from the bike.

Started again, with a analogue meter across the battery I got 12.5 Volts at 4000rpm

So checked rotor got 4 ohms. Checked stator again and all good.

Then moved to regulator that measured 55.8 ohms, 0.8 ohms more than the book figure. The points are clean and not pitted.

Then went to the rectifier, did the test as per the triple resources website. Following the wording and checking my results 4 times. I have as follows. The yellows read 4 ohms one way and when I reverse the leads they measure infinite. When I measured the blue and red I get 18 ohms one way and infinite the other. So am I correct in thinking it's the rectifier? Even though I fitted a modern replacement that now gives the same readings as the old original one. Can't be much else to look at.

The yellows down to the windings should read the same both ways, that's the alternator windings checked .
check for continuity on the black and green wires, this will check the wiring, rotor and brushes in one hit.
With the engine turned on see if you have voltage on the green wire from the reg


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PostPosted: Mon May 08, 2017 7:07 am 

Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2017 5:45 am
Posts: 50
Location: Watton Norfolk, UK
Hi checked the green, with Ignition on, Engine off, I got 2.7 Volts, is that good?


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