Yes, the float in the Uni-Syn vial.
Question: on the 3 in one Uni-Syn, is that three air meters and ONE vial, or, 3 and 3 (one complete Uni-Syn on each carb)?
Neither of those ways will work. The idea is to get one Uni-Syn set to one carb, then, NOT change the air flow setting, and go on to the other two carbs, adjusting them to read the same float level in the vial. then, going over each carb again, to confirm they all read the same.
The biggest problem with individual meters is that they might read dead same at 18 in/hg of vacuum, but, anything other than that, all over the place. This is the main problem with factory vacuum gauge sets we got for the 4 strokes.
That is why a mercury manometer is so nice, all carbs have vacuum takeoffs, same length lines to meter, and ONE pool of media to raise from. If one carb is off, it is instantly noticeable, the media won't be the same height in the tubes. Also, easiest to do for both idle setting, and on cable off idle.
I still set Hilborn V8 injector stacks with a mercury manometer, I built ones for 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines, not hard.
I have also never set the air screws other than the factory spec, they are air screws, not fuel screws. If it isn't right after setting the screw to the factory spec, change the pilot jet.
Yes, on the other two carbs, same place as the vacuum valve takeoff. I run the engines on Prime whenever I manometer them, with all 3 hoses on the carbs.
Years ago, there was a factory directed modification (FDM) for the original Z1, in that the pressed in vacuum spigots were pressed into a hole in the head. After heat, vibration, they fell out. FDM was to tap, add threaded in spigots. I have a lot of them, and they are available at good hardware stores and specialty houses like McMaster-Carr. To close them off, I use the vacuum spigot rubber covers from the same Z1. Never had a problem with one coming off.
When we consider the original way the factory manuals said to set the carbs, either Uni-Syn, or manometer is so much better. It was to idle the engine, then, put your hands at the rear of the pipes, and "feel" the exhaust pulses and their intensity, adjust to be the same. Then, pull the boots off the carbs, and with one's fingers, feel for all slides lifting the same off idle. Very scientific.
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