Kawi2strokes.com Forum

The like you posted answers when to connect the gauge and pump:

"If you're using an old crank with all rubber seals you need to test one cylinder at a time because they are all sealed separately. So you will only need one 2" stopper for the exhaust side and your gage tester setup to go into the air intake side. "

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Yes the Mityvac pump answers that question.

And by testing one cylinder at a time, one would only need 3 plugs, intake, oil line and exhaust, right?

Demounted the cylinder heads and all three have been leaking, but the gaskets looked good. Remount and torque the nuts to spec should fix that I hope

Outer spark plugs were chocolate brown but middle was white and the head wet from some unburned fuel.

Did you anneal the copper gaskets?

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

We have just cleaned the gaskets and heads with brake cleaner. Didn't have a properly sized torque wrench so had to order one.

Is it a good idea to anneal the gaskets?

It's necessary if you want a good seal.

_________________
If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

OK, thanks Jim!

Please remember, it is not only a pressure test, but a vacuum test, too. 6.0 psi pressure, 6.0 in/hg vacuum, both no change for 6 minutes.

Yes, we have ordered parts for testing the seals, including a Mityvac vacuum/pressure pump: https://www.skf.com/mityvac/products/hand-vacuum-pressure-pumps/hand-pumps/mv8510

It will be very interesting to see the results.

We have done some testing now, but I think it's very hard to draw any conclusions. We're not convinced that the test kit itself is 100% leak free.

I'm thinking this method would be better: http://www.kawatriple.com/cranksealtest/cranksealtester.htm

Doing it that way one can eliminate all possible leaking spots above the crank case.

I also thought one were supposed to test each cylinder individually, but I have seen posts suggesting this is not the case?