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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:19 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
Pop a Head off, and have a look, 4 bolts! :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 10:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:56 pm
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Location: New Hampshire
I suggest getting a 4 year degree in rocket science :banghead


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:12 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Checked the needles today and they are the same 5DJ19 in all carbs. Clips were at the 3rd position (spec says 4th) but I left them there. New float valve assy in two carbs and they don't drop gas anymore.

Carbs are synced as far as throttles are at the bottom (no idle) and they have zero play in the throttle wires.

Did another compression test on all cylinders after warming the engine. All showed at least 150 psi, but a bit different readings.

The center have spark and does run when over a certain RPM.

Have yet to take the center cylinder head off and check the piston.

I'm starting to run out of ideas. Bad ignition? Leaks in the engine still possible?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:25 pm 

Joined: Tue May 15, 2012 3:04 am
Posts: 73
Location: Missouri
Jim wrote:
Pecka wrote:
Yes, switched the carbs (not the throttles, needles, top cap etc though) and problem didn't move. Before the switch it was possible to get the middle cylinder firing with start spray or pulling the throttle wire.


OK, not ignition then. Clearly there is a problem with the carb if pulling the wire or spraying fuel into it gets that cylinder running. Did the throttle cable get out of position in the 3-way splitter, or something like that? Look in the carb while you turn the throttle grip and see if the slide moves up (engine not running).

When I worked in the auto repair trade, we had a car that would not run. When we sprayed starter fluid in the intake, it would run. So we looked for a fuel system problem. Turns out the engine had an ignition problem but the starter fluid would, for the lack of a better term, diesel and would make it run.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:25 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
The compression test says that the piston is OK.

You can swap white wires going to the CDI units between the center and another cylinder, and swap red wires going out of the CDI units to the coils of the same two cylinders. Then if the cylinder that doesn't run properly moves, you know a CDI unit is the problem.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
I haven't gone back thru the prior posts on this thread but I have a suggestion based on your recent comment.
Check the resistance of each pickup... should be 160-180 ohms. Anything less is a problem.
Check pickup air gap.
IF all that checks out swap the ignition modules.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:40 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Thanks all will do the suggested tests! :thumbup:

As I said in an earlier post a new wiring loom was sent with the bike. Could the current one have gremlins in it?


Last edited by Pecka on Tue Apr 25, 2017 4:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2017 3:59 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
Mraxl's idea is a good one for sure. Since pickups' signals get bigger with increasing RPM, one that is failing and not making much signal could easily still work at high RPM.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 1:37 pm 

Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 18
Location: Sittingbourne,kent,UK
If you have resistor type plug caps,remove them & fit non-resistor caps.
Do not use resistor type spark plugs.
Fit a new set of spark plugs ( Bosch W2AS plugs are a very good plug for triples)
Have you set the ignition timing the correct way using a dial gauge & timing light at
or over 4000rpm? ( as it states in the manual on each cylinder).
Check the resistance values of the 2 ignition charge coils in the stator ( low & high speed coils).
Check all earth (ground) connections.
Unplug Black-White wire from small cdi box start engine,does it run better?
Do not hold the B/W wire their is about 300 volts on it when the engine is running.
To stop engine short B/W to earth ( ground).


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
This may have been covered... however... if that cylinder has bad seals or a crankcase leak somehow, it won't run down low but as pumping improves with speed it will start to run. Single cylinder 2 strokes won't start with dead crank seals, a triple will.

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