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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
I said this before, but... have you confirmed you have crankcase compression on the center cylinder? A 2 stroke with no crank compression will not run down low, but after some rpm has built it will, pumping increases etc and the flow overcomes the leak. Could easily have a blown cylinder base gasket on that cylinder.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 3:50 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
triple cranks wrote:
Just a suggestion but I wouldn't jump all over the place checking "this" and "that" without confirming "this" first.

Not to beat a dead horse, but make sure you have "good" spark FIRST. Then move on. As I mentioned before, there is no need to by the spark tester right away (although it is a MUST tool to have for anyone working on small engines). Just use the spark plug with ground strap removed method. It takes seconds to test ;)


I took off the plugs and adjusted the gaps. Middle cylinder had only 0,7 mm but that plug was in the right cylinder originally so I don't think the trouble is because of that.

Used the kickstart with my arm and locked carefully at the sparks. Left is blueish and stable. Middle and right are lighter in color and more "jumpy" and random. Probably a useless observation?

I have ordered new spark plugs anyway just to eliminate that factor.


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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 3:54 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
DGA wrote:
I said this before, but... have you confirmed you have crankcase compression on the center cylinder? A 2 stroke with no crank compression will not run down low, but after some rpm has built it will, pumping increases etc and the flow overcomes the leak. Could easily have a blown cylinder base gasket on that cylinder.


I will get some start gas and spray at possible air leak areas. I have looked around the cylinder heads and bases but haven't seen any obvious leakages (oil).

Is it a good idea to check the cylinder head nuts with a torque wrench?


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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
You could check head torque, but if a base gasket is leaking or has a piece blown out then torquing them won't change anything. Try the start gas spray while it's running I guess.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 8:32 pm 

Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2011 10:32 am
Posts: 600
Location: Jarrettsville, MD
Pecka wrote:
triple cranks wrote:
Just a suggestion but I wouldn't jump all over the place checking "this" and "that" without confirming "this" first.

Not to beat a dead horse, but make sure you have "good" spark FIRST. Then move on. As I mentioned before, there is no need to by the spark tester right away (although it is a MUST tool to have for anyone working on small engines). Just use the spark plug with ground strap removed method. It takes seconds to test ;)


I took off the plugs and adjusted the gaps. Middle cylinder had only 0,7 mm but that plug was in the right cylinder originally so I don't think the trouble is because of that.

Used the kickstart with my arm and locked carefully at the sparks. Left is blueish and stable. Middle and right are lighter in color and more "jumpy" and random. Probably a useless observation?

I have ordered new spark plugs anyway just to eliminate that factor.


:banghead ahhhhh!!! LOL!

The color says nothing, it is the gap it must jump without compression to show it will fire under compression. Does it jump a 1/4" gap? New plugs are worthless if it doesn't spark UNDER COMPRESSION.

Just trying to help :thumbup:

Can anyone else chime in to try to explain this concept? Or am I wrong in how to diagnose this. Been wrong too many times to count :lol: I know when I was teaching classes, sometimes a particular instructor simply could not get the point to the student. When another instructor jumped in, it was like a light switch went on.

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 3:03 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Predictably new plugs didn't help, but now I have old plugs to use for testing as suggested.

Plug is wet so gas flow is OK to some degree at least.

Switched gas lines from the petcock with left cylinder carb. Problem doesn't move.

Buy strobe light and dial gauge and reset the timing?

Buy a complete new ignition system and change parts until it hopefully works?

Demount the cylinder and check for signs of previous seizure?


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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
Posts: 2691
Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
http://www.lakeserv.net/kaw/h2_all_in_one/index.html

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PostPosted: Tue May 02, 2017 6:19 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
mraxl wrote:
http://www.lakeserv.net/kaw/h2_all_in_one/index.html


It's worth a try so I ordered it.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 2:21 am 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Got myself a tool looking exactly like this one:

https://www.biketeile24.de/en/tools/mot ... tment.html

Some generic tool that sells under different brands it seems.

I'm probably stupid but I can't quite figure out how to use it after finding TDC with the pin in the middle?


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 9:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
You need a micrometer to use that. Find TDC then with the micrometer add the 3 whatever mm to the length and reinstall. Make sure you are BTDC and pun the piston up until it touches. Or just use a digital caliper. Timing is not your problem, but it does need to be correct.

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