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Pecka
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 3:58 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
mraxl wrote:
I haven't gone back thru the prior posts on this thread but I have a suggestion based on your recent comment.
Check the resistance of each pickup... should be 160-180 ohms. Anything less is a problem.
Check pickup air gap.
IF all that checks out swap the ignition modules.


It works now (I think)!
Checked resistance in the pickups. All OK around 177 ohms. Then checked the air gap with feeler gauges, and left and right were more than 5 mm but less than 6. The middle was less than 5 mm. Using the gauge I set it to 5, then started the engine and noticed smoke from the middle pipe and felt it heat up. :thumbup:

Seems very promising and will try to adjust the carbs tomorrow.
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Jim
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:10 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9840
Location: North Central NC
The gap specification is 0.5 to 0.8 millimeters. They should work fine at 0.8 unless the rotor is partially demagnetized.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.
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Pecka
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:48 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Jim wrote:
The gap specification is 0.5 to 0.8 millimeters. They should work fine at 0.8 unless the rotor is partially demagnetized.


I'm no expert but assume bigger gap is better?

Should get myself a dial gauge too, any recommendations?
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Ja-Moo
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 5:01 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
I prefer smaller gap. And here is how I set the timing with a digital caliper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKcyiDS27J0&t=406s

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........
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Jim
PostPosted: Wed Apr 26, 2017 5:58 pm 
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Location: North Central NC
Under normal circumstances, a gap on the larger side of the spec gives you more room for crank flexing without contact, but even 0.5mm should be safe. A larger gap causes more retard below 4,000 rpm, which is fairly unimportant as well.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.
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Pecka
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:13 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
That was premature. When I started it today centre cylinder is dead again.
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Zambia
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
Posts: 1901
Location: Campbellville Ontario
Did you try the suggestion of switching the CDI boxes? That definitely sounds like it could be the issue..
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Pecka
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 12:29 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Zambia wrote:
Did you try the suggestion of switching the CDI boxes? That definitely sounds like it could be the issue..


I intend to do it now but trying to figure out which way is the easiest to reach the bolts so I can unmount the plate the boxes sit on. Remove battery and battery box or remove oil tank?

The rectifier is at the bottom so I have to remove something to see it at all..
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Jim
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 1:25 pm 
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Location: North Central NC
You don't need to unmount anything if you do it as I suggested, by switching wires, not boxes.

You can also test the four CDI units with this procedure, using a 12v battery and a 12v test lamp:

http://kawatriple.com/cdih2/cditesth2.htm

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Pecka
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 2:10 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Switched the green wires to the CDI units between left and center cylinder and I got spark on both (and right).

Switched spark plug caps and red wires to coils between left and center, spark on all.

Switched back spark plug caps and reversed the white wires from ignition units between left and center. Both have spark..


Last edited by Pecka on Thu Apr 27, 2017 2:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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