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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 11:10 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:28 pm
Posts: 1559
Location: Tampa Bay Florida
mraxl wrote:
Routinely run to redline thru the gears to keep the crankcase cleared.

And frequently open the throttle abruptly, causing the front wheel to lift and the bike to tilt rearward (in some cultures known as "wheelie" :think: ), this will help to dump raw oil out of the pipes and keep things clean and clear! :thumbup: (except maybe your driving record...)

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 21, 2016 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:12 pm
Posts: 1902
Location: Rockville, MD USA
mraxl wrote:
Yes, a lot of guys back off the pump setting. And I have used Redline... good stuff but expensive.

Remember that nothing you change will show immediate results.... crankcase must be cleared and pipes/baffles may be saturated. It takes a while before all that old residual gets burned off. And if you baby it chances are you will never get rid of excess smoke. Routinely run to redline thru the gears to keep the crankcase cleared.


Thanks for this; I remember RB saying that you have to "cane these things" periodically to keep things clean and I was riding well below redline.
One of those cases where babying an engine causes more trouble than good.

Jim - Thanks for this info and "sorry for your loss"

All this time I thought you wanted to keep oil out of the pipes as opposed to fully oiling them and then "draining"

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2016 1:16 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
Took off the oil pump cover on the other H1 that smokes too much today. But it was a bit difficult getting the cover off and then put it back. The big rubber top/cap for the ignition cables (whatever it's called can't find it in the parts catalog) didn't align property into the pump cover. Apparently the thinner back side on the cover is slightly bent forward. Don't know if it was like that or I did something wrong?

Anyway, the pump is sticking, and leaking from somewhere.

Made up my mind today to unbolt the complete engine, and take it in to a pro and have it totally rebuilt.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 31, 2016 5:34 am 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
How much approximately does a complete H1 engine weight by the way, 50 kg?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:09 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
yes about that. With carbs and covers removed, you should be able to carry it alone. I just turned 60 and i carried it, a week ago. Not muscular at all, but I have a strong back.
But removing it from frame (or reverse) takes two persons...
Good luck Pecka

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 12:00 pm 

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:58 am
Posts: 201
Location: Sweden
900SL wrote:
yes about that. With carbs and covers removed, you should be able to carry it alone. I just turned 60 and i carried it, a week ago. Not muscular at all, but I have a strong back.
But removing it from frame (or reverse) takes two persons...
Good luck Pecka


Thanks 900SL!

Will most likely take the engine to Ebos in Malmö. It's a long trip from here but they are supposed to be the best for this I think?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
Posts: 4364
Location: PARIS FRANCE
I still carry an H2 engine with carbs by myself if necessary and am more than 60 years old now (exactly 61) but it seems now heavier than on the earlies 70s :lol: :lol: :lol:


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