Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Both the left and right outer seals can be changed without opening the crankcase, if that turns out to be the problem. Ja-Moo made a video about it.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

The actual case sealer makes a difference as well. I use exclusively Three-Bond 1194 now, used to use 1104, or Yama-Bond 4. Other sealers sometimes just don't work well in making a gasket of themselves. Now, this may well be wrong, but, left cyl, wihte plug lean, center a bit darker, right, loaded with oil, could be both the seals, AND the sealer.

left case is out in the open, not near the trans case, center and right share a bulkhead with trans.

Just supposition, and, possibilities to consider.

Yes that would explain why the plug colors are they way they are.

The seller says the bike was rebuilt in 2003 and had about 3K miles on it when I bought it. Could the seals have dried out in 13 years?

Do you know if the crank was rebuilt when the other engine work was done? Even if so, there were some bad seal kits floating around at that time...

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

Since the engine runs, one way to see if the cases leak at the split, would be to remove the sprocket cover, and run the engine, while spraying some sort of light oil along the case split on the left cylinder. If the engine changes, and/or starts to smoke out the left, case leak.

Three-Bond 1194, or, Yama-Bond 4 only, I find they work the best.

Crazy idea, what if you added some propane through the oil fill while running?

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

You are referring to 2 stroke oil in your post above I assume also is the bike using transmission oil also?
On the black plug have you checked for a possible stuck choke plunger or choke cable being pulled.

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1977 KH 400
1976 KH 250/350 rat bike
1971 KV 75
1976 KV 75

Yes sorry meant 2 stroke oil, my text was confusing.

I should check the transmission oil level, haven't done that in a while.

The guys at the meeting checked the choke cables and they were okay.

John, we've used unilt propane for years to find intake manifold leaks on automotive engines, works well, but, we test out in the open.

Also, around the late 1970's, Kalifornia had such strict emissions rules, to get the fuel screws set right on some GM cars for bi-annual smog testing, there had to be a metered amount of propane flowed down the carb while the screws were being adjusted, to get the idle fuel mixture correct, or, it didn't pass idle smog levels.

Now, I am crazy enough to try your method, but, I don't think it should be done by everybody, simply because you are flowing an explosive gas into a closed area, and that could make for a real disaster if it got lit off inside the clutch/trans case.

Yes, I'd use something like Castrol R racing bean oil, in both the trans, and along the case split. If it is burned from a leak, it'll smell just like a day at the road races.

I did write it was crazy! I couldn't think of a way for it to ignite in the trans, no sparking (one would hope, and that would be a bigger problem...... ) Bit Maybe possible if a left seal is shot and some got in the ignition side. But then just take the iggy cover off.

Anyway, just a nutter thought...........

But seriously, it would really be rare for a case surface leak. (unless damaged) And you could actually just fill up your transmission with your regular trans oil so the oil lever is way over the mating surface, and just run the motor. That would be sure to get excessive oil smoke if there was a gap, and then just drain out the excess.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........