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Walms
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 8:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 2223
Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
Also worth noting is with larger than stock carbs with a longer travel, you'll be getting max flow at less throttle opening.
Also, I've never heard of anyone that has seized a motor at idle due to backing off the set point.
Please chime in if you have. ;)

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Jim
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 9:42 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9846
Location: North Central NC
But... is that "less throttle opening" actually more flow than a stock carb at that same cable pull, since it's a larger throat?

I did have my cable adjustment slip many years ago, and add quite a bit of slack to the cable. Like maybe 1/4" to 3/8". It scored the top end badly in the next thousand miles or so and I had to rebore and replace the pistons. It didn't seize though. And I'm sure the damage was due to insufficient oil at running speed, not at idle.

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Walms
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 10:23 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:04 pm
Posts: 2223
Location: Just north of Toronto, Ontario
I know a guy that idled his sloppy 400 home with no oil in the lines. ;)

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H2RTuner
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 3:30 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3148
I've done more than a few 34mm carb/STOCK throttle cable conversions, never had to change anything with the oil pump cable, and always did the adjustment as I described in my last post, last dot to line on post. Worked just fine all those times.

Only times I had to change the pull rate was for carbs bigger than 34mm bodied ones.
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AER005
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 8:49 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:39 pm
Posts: 736
Location: Narooma NSW Aus
H2RTuner wrote:
Specific oil pump output volumes have been changed many times per model, as we see as example, H2, H2-1, H2-2, H2-3, etc. Each successive number has altered oil volume delivery for the same internal setting.

On the baile, the cable wheel, there are dots past the line, I set my pumps, no matter the pump, at engine OFF, wide open throttle, to the last dot on the baile, to the line on the post, never broke an engine from those settings, ONLY conventional oil, and, I was probably the first person that went as far as to measure the check valve blow off pressures and adjust them to 4.6 psi. I NEVER set my street bikes, stock, to as hot rod as I cam make them, to use premix.

One year at the Castrol 6 hour endurance race in Australia, Hurley ran a stock H2 street bike in the stock 750 class, and used the H2 wheel for the pump, and an S1 pump, ran the whole race on ONE tank of engine oil, no premix, never missed a beat.

Ha thats cheating :o :o :o , its a stock race you said !!! :wtf: , no one was really stock !!! :) :) ;)
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H2RTuner
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 10:37 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3148
"Cheating", "stock race"????? What the heck is that all about? I ran a bunch of H1 and H2 street bikes with stock throttle cables and 34mm carbs, ON THE STREET, and set a bunch of others up the same way for many people, had NO problems with the oil pump cable, nor oil pump adjustment, as I said above.

Just how is that "cheating"??
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RODH2
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
Australia was one of the very few places in the world that had racing for Stock Production, showroom standard bikes, and it was heavily enforced - particularly in races like the "Castrol 6-hour" race. I, myself, was protested for having hand-finished porting in my Standard H2, well, of course. the early H2's did have mildly hand finished ports, it was standard! So, technically, that S2 pump on a H2 bike, was illegal, but we'll let you off, because Hurley is one of the good-guys!! :lol: So in Australia "stock-standard" meant exactly that, and that is how I raced my H2 for a few seasons. You took the stands off, headlight and tail light "glass" off, and wired up drain plugs, (all for "safety") and you went racing.

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Jim
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2015 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9846
Location: North Central NC
Like in your avatar, maybe? I miss the days when racing was simpler. I had many fun Sunday mornings watching amateur boat racing in Ocean City, NJ when I was a kid, and saw some truly wild and amazing boats. Ja-Moo sent me a link to some stuff about the 130cc underbone class racing recently, and I gotta say it looks fun.

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RODH2
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 12:09 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
:lol: Just like the avatar, Jim, tho I think we got a bit Blase, and just wired up the centre-stand for that one...... (thinking: come on you guys, hurry up.....!) Your competition was the other guy on a H2, until you got into the open classes! Simple days!

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motometal
 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump Setting
PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2015 9:54 am 

Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:37 am
Posts: 83
Location: USA
Jim wrote:
It scored the top end badly in the next thousand miles or so and I had to rebore and replace the pistons. It didn't seize though. And I'm sure the damage was due to insufficient oil at running speed, not at idle.


I run my pump backed off like Tuner suggests, then add about 1.5 oz per gallon of high quality synthetic oil to the tank (currently using Sea Doo oil but whatever). Truth be told, I could probably throw the injection system in the trash and the engine would last quite a while although not confident with the non-windowed rods. Like the extra insurance that bit of premix gives. Not for everyone, like those that put on high miles and want to fill up at the gas station. I guess you could carry a little bottle with you, after all that's how it was done in the early days prior to premix.

Did you guys know that...certain old Yamahas (and maybe others) had the oil pump driven in such a way that with the clutch in, it stopped? It became common knowledge that you should put it in neutral at long stoplights, and avoid excessive revving when taking off.
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