Kawi2strokes.com Forum

OK then......Heres my 2 cents worth........never expected to know as much about an H2 triple oil pump as I do now (which is still less than some !)

When I got my H2B 3 years ago........it had no oil injection system on it........I insisted the guy give me the parts (tank, pump, 3 into 1 line, the big Banjos)..........or I would not buy the bike..........reluctantly he went and got it.....deal done

The bike was run with non slotted rods on Klotz pre-mix.........4 of 6 crank bearings were wasted, one rod was shot........lots of corrosion

I put the 4 hole pump on the bike, scrounged parts from all over hell............the cam was worn out (pot metal area) and was sucking air (bubbles in the line)..........tried many things to repair it, helicoiled, new seals, stato seals, etc.....still junk.......payed a fortune for a good 4 line pump that worked........had Darth build me a 3 into 1 line with early brass check valves.......still smoked like crazy

After much studying and installing VM34 carbs.........I had really had enough of the 4 line pump.........don't like it........though they work.....odd flow to cylinders........hassle when re-jetting........I was already thinking of going to an early 3 line pump with individual oil lines to the engine block (and not the carbs)..........purchased two pumps......an early H2-1.........and the better later H2-3 three line pump and lines (transfered my brass check valves over that Darth rebuilt with crack off at 4.6 lbs)

When my transmission imploded after Mid-Ohio 2 years ago..........I rebuilt the motor.........had to use a 73 engine block as my 74 cases were cracked (73 does not need the holes drilled in the big banjo area).........modded my late cylinders and installed .30 mikuni pilot jets

found all the new seals for the H2-3 pump and had it heli coiled by Jeff Derstine (good mod)...........totally rebuilt the pump.........this is the best pump as they fixed an issue with the end cap (that caused smoking in the R cylinder on the H2-1 pump)

I run VM 34 carbs.........had major throttle cable length issues..........after much cutting and hassling on the H2 cable.......do yourself a big favor and get an H-1 throttle cable and tap where the cable goes thru to the pump (the cable is 2mm longer at the slides).......thanks Tim Steele for the tip !

I run an H-1 bail.........it has a bigger diameter (the one on the left in the PIC's)...........meaning, for 1 " of throttle pull, you get less turn at the pump..........at WFO, I don't get the binding I had with stock bail and the dots line up as tuner suggested

I also back my pump off at idle quite a bit.........I just took the top end off, the motor is soaked in oil and after about 3000 miles, I still have cross hatch hone marks in the cylinders, the Wossners still have some black coating..........I run slotted rods and Spectro 2T Dino Oil..........very little smoke now......specially when it warms up..........if you are building a new motor.....consider doing this.

I found oil everywhere, all parts with plenty of oil.....IMHO, you can back a good bit on oiling and have plenty

Good stuff Jim on the 9mm H1 piston and 10mm on the H2 piston.........that explains the volume in CC difference

THX Phil

Nice post Phil !!!
And I totally agree on what you did ... I ran pumping (distribution) tests on the 3-1 line and (as you well know) the results weren't pretty ..

I always knew that the crank to pump ratio was the same on both the H1 and the H2 ...

I kinda figured the stroke of both H1 and H2 pumps were basically the same ... based on my H1 to "S" comparisons ...

So the next logical question in my mind was ... do the H1 and H2 deliver the same amount of oil ??? (which wouldn't have surprise me in the least)

Now that I found the piston diameter a bit larger on the H2B pump ... mystery solved ...

Which raises another question that would pertain to only the H2 people out there ...

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If you look for the bad in people expecting to find it, you surely will.

A start.

BRP...with the re-work of the crank including slotted rods, I'm a bit surprised you didn't go premix only. Do you ride the bike enough cross-country that this would be a hassle?

My 2 cents
I tried running pre-mix in the 1st motor that was built for the Phoenix Project. I used the stock oil tank as a reservoir, complete with a ball valve and a hose and carried my little measuring bottle with me, etc. In a word premix sucks on a street bike. The pumps are reliable and work well if set up properly with good check valves and inspected regularly, plus the motor isn't drowning in oil.

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I Love the Smell of Blue Marble in the Morning!!!
Tim Steele in Front Royal, VA
Home of the Phoenix Project
Stay in it when it comes on the pipe, no need to be scared...

I am with Tim on this one!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Motometal........I did the premix for a few months........it's a hassle on a street bike..........besides, on a true H2 pre-mix motor, one "should" have slotted rods........and remove the slingers on the crank......(they are actually oil retainers......the fiber circular deals)

The oil pump feeds down to the L side bearings.......and at idle it's 100 to 1........WFO is 20 to 1

I probably use a quart in 400 to 500 miles now........not bad and hassle free

I also, was talking to Jim Shreve (Darth last night)........I measured the 3 line H2-1 pump.......the piston is 10mm.......same as the 4 hole pump FYI

THX Phil

Darth, a suggestion on the wheels, why not set up an inner cable the way it fits the pump, and from line to line @ idle to line to last dot, measure how much length the cable pulls, say, at the outer cable seat on a cover. This way, with each specification for each pump, we would all know what the stock wheel travel is, in length of the pull. Rough example: 1-1 may pull ,750 inch, H1-3 may pull .924 inch, etc.

Just a thought. This spec might help those with bigger carbs to be able to fit the right wheel for the travel needed, if they are different.

I would love to but ... at this point ... I only have a S3 wheel, a H1 wheel and that H2B wheel to work with ...

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If you look for the bad in people expecting to find it, you surely will.

me too even H2R and KR 750 have oil pump (for the crankshaft)