Just wanted to post some stuff.
Im not really sure what Im looking for except maybe some general info so I can put this all into perspective.
I dont know what to expect from these bikes and it has been a very interesting and somewhat frustrating learning curve.
I still don't have the jetting right but I think I am trying to achieve something that may not be achievable.
Below is a port map Moo did when he had my cylinders.
Any thoughts on how the power curve/ behavior would be with this porting would be appreciated.
I have researched it myself a bit and although I am confused I think I have at least a small understanding.
I am hoping this will help me learn a bit more in general.
I have read a bunch but none of it tells you about the manners or behavior of the power curve unless you have experience.
Right now it will not pull redline in 4th or 5th doing roll ons but Im sure its the VERY large main I have in while I am trying to get the needle right. On the needle between 4000 and 6500 it accelerates steadily but slowly in both 4th and 5th, I have tried every needle position and both p-5 and p-2 needle jets. The p-2 with the needle on the 2nd position seemed to work best but the changes where so small there was nothing drastic to suggest that it was MUCH better with any of the combos.
I don't know how they accelerate and from the dyno charts posted here there isn't much power in that range so maybe thats it and I should move on to the main. If I accelerate right thru the range it will pull red line but I have to keep it above 6500 to keep accelerating, if Iet it drop below 6000 I have to down shift to get the revs up above that again, I am thinking this is normal behavior for this bike with this porting, pipe and reeds, and although getting the jetting better will help it will still be this "flavor" if you get my meaning.
The pipes are Spec II.
(at least the Zeel is working better )
Thanks

Just wondering, since mine pulls like a 4-stroke to the powerband, when it pulls way harder. Other than the flat spot around 5,200 rpm, that is. You should be able to tune away all the boggy spots.

Your port map points to a quite streetable H2 demus. This should work out quite fine, not radical at all, but remember your pipes are quite revvy I think, but I am not sure as I have not dynoed them.
But be aware of that 34 carbs on a ported H2 with pipes are VERY small. At least I had success adding 38's instead of those rather tiny 34's.

From your description, it seems like you have a huge flat spot right before you are in the powerband, since you need to be at 6500 to be able to accelerate. That is same behaviour as I had running 34's, Aylor reeds and pipes, and I could not get rid of it. (even tried the moderate higgspeed pipes, but the huge flat spot was still there, but I had great peak power, 109 rwhp with them jollyes, and 90 I think, with higgspeed)

I have the dyno curve somewhere of both vm34 reeds higgspeed and jollymoto comboes somewhere, but it is not really combarable to yours as the ex duration was 200 degrees, with ex port wider and more square for better blow down area and stronger exhaust pulse, and also the transfer duration was higher

..j.

Jørgen

Some observations & comments....

It appears that you are chasing your tail by altering timing prior to getting jetting sorted.
I would set timing at stock 23deg, sort out jetting, then alter timing afterward.
Trying to play with two variables at the same time can be overwhelming.

Jetting can be time consuming and require a lot of brass. Your bike would probably be best suited with larger carbs. If that is what you want to do, now is the time to do it. Otherwise, if larger carbs are fitted you will have jetting to do all over again.

You reference rpm for jetting problem areas... it might be best to use throttle position as that is what the carb sees for various tuning circuits. Mark throttle position with tape for reference.

A chart on http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/carbtune/carbtune.htm shows the overlap between carb circuit variables.