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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 10:34 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Quote:
I am so close to starting it it isn't funny, its ready to start I just need to find the time and I have to work again today and then family plans late afternoon and tonight
MAYBE tomorrow afternoon!!



Hell yes :!: .......another one is coming to life.......awesome and good luck......you gonna like the H2, like a big 3 cylinder dirt bike.......they might be a PITA sometimes as the can be finnicky to get right, but always put a grin on your face for sure when you go ride it :D

Do you have a stock motor, carbs and exhaust ?

You probably already know this, but loosen the oil inlet banjo untill oil starts flowing out from the oil tank........some people use different starting procedures, I just hit the choke button with no throttle and 4th kick she fires, mine is cold natured so may have to blip the choke lever a few times........with the oil pump cover off, you can rev it some (2800) and hold the PUMP CAM open.........you will see the oil start crawling thru the lines and the bubbles pushing out.......beware though, I overdid it one time and oil flooded the motor......took an hour of kicking it and two sets of plugs to finally get it cleaned out.......best to let the oil crawl a few inches out of the pump, then go for a ride.........make sure you don't have air bubbles in the line after 5 or 10 miles. I usually put 1 gallon of gas in with a little pre-mix then head straight for the gas station and fill it up (as long as the bubbles are gone).........many guys do not do this as they say it's not needed

THX Phil :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:04 pm 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
If you haven't watched yet......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJ4jlFHPU3U

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 5:18 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Ja-Moo wrote:
If you haven't watched yet......

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NJ4jlFHPU3U


:thumbup: Ive watch most if not all of the videos as I have done this project John and thanks for taking time to do those!

Lines are all filled, there is probably a bit of air in the pump yet but I set the whole thing up off the bike and tested the pump, I then left the lines full and installed them, line from oil tank to pump full!
There is gas in the tank, oil, trans is full, very good chance I will start it tomorrow, and see if it works!

Motor is not stock, Purple haze stage II porting, 34mm mikunis, Spec II pipes, first over Wiseco pistons, slotted for the Reed kit from John, squished heads also by John. He had a lot of work on those heads they were way off from pervious work done to them, very nice job! And of course the Zeel Iggy!
There is a thread on Mods & Rods under Inherited H2 project, I put some stuff on there and will be posting some pics there when Im done, If it works that is…If not I'll sneak off in embaresment :oops: ;) :D
Gsxr front end, RD 350 mono shock rear swinger with a Yamaha R6 shock, Gsxr wheels, Buell fly screen. And very un-stock colors!
And don't worry I know finicky, Im married with kids :lol: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 14, 2015 6:50 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Demus.....cool........serious port work there.......that bike is gonna rip :!:

It will work :!: , seems as you are well on your way :thumbup:

Then comes jetting, I have been out doing some test runs with different needle jets and tried some clip positions........getting close, real close.........Niche Cycle sent me 3 of the P-2 but only 2 of the O-8 :banghead ($48 for three needle jets)...........back ordered from Mikuni.....which was my next step.......I am aquiring a lot of brass......reeds are probably a bit more forgiving.......Piston Port is super finnicky........I can have the carbs off, rejetted and back on the bike in about an hour, 16 times so far, due to different mods, each one has required jetting changes.

Good Luck Phil :wave:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
It started!! Posted some stuff in Mods & rods.
It looks like I will be very close to 26 to 27 degrees total advance. It was firing right before my 25 deg mark, I didn't have time to research further had to quit for the night.
I have the hand held controller and I need to figure it out a bit more, Im sure its easy just didn't have the time to work with it yet.
I bet the computer is much easier from the screenshot you posted.
I spent a lot of time very carefully setting the timing statically on the bike with the dial indicator and I think it paid off, I set the curve at a flat 15deg and all three fired exactly on my 15 deg mark, compensation set at 30 and it did not move as I revved, so I think is good :thumbup:
More to come, and jetting too Phil…UHG


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:36 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Quote:
It started!! Posted some stuff in Mods & rods.
It looks like I will be very close to 26 to 27 degrees total advance. It was firing right before my 25 deg mark, I didn't have time to research further had to quit for the night.
I have the hand held controller and I need to figure it out a bit more, Im sure its easy just didn't have the time to work with it yet.
I bet the computer is much easier from the screenshot you posted.
I spent a lot of time very carefully setting the timing statically on the bike with the dial indicator and I think it paid off, I set the curve at a flat 15deg and all three fired exactly on my 15 deg mark, compensation set at 30 and it did not move as I revved, so I think is good
More to come, and jetting too Phil…UHG



DEMUS..........Awesome Man !........that is great.........I know that is a big relief ;) ......the Kawi2Strokes, KTOG, Canadians and Europeans.......you have a lot of resources at hand :thumbup:

I know you have a wife and kids, so budget is understandable.........$60 for the USB cable........it's way cool.........I plugged my handheld in the other day just goofing around and overwrote my MAP...........and I do programming for a living.........I can easily figure it out by reading the book.........will master that later......but the laptop is a no brainer and really nice :!:

As long as you are around 23 or so, it should idle and run good.........it pays to check everything out......good job man !

THX Phil :wave:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 6:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Thought Id post a bit more detail on what I found on my first try with the Zeeltronic ignition.
I set the timing as per the instructions that came with the Zeel and the info obtained from Jim H from Fast From the Past.
Max rotation of the plate and pick-ups clock wise.
Set the pickups and checked the static angle and came up with 23.5 deg. I set that in the Zeel as the static angle.
I then figured out the static crank angle for between 0 and 30 deg btdc and them marked it on the rotor using the stock tab on the plate for alignment.
Image

You can see from the pic that Zero is not on the stock mark don't know why and don't care that is where 0 is, it fell a bit different on all three but they all measured 120 deg apart so I figure its good. I could have move the indicator tab but why bother 0 is 0 ( I hope)
To get perfect zero I set the dial indicator properly then rotated the crank one way until the needle on the dial indicator just moved a tiny bit (1/2 thousandths ) then I made a mark, then I moved the crank the other way until the needle on the dial indicator move to the other side of 0 by a 1/2 thousandths made a mark, then I marked exactly in between the two for my zero and reset the dial indicator. I repeated this three times for each cylinder to be sure I could repute the results and it was spot on each time.
Then I set all the marks in 5 deg increments using the dial indicator and the spread sheet (Spreadsheet is wrong; use the correct rod length as per Mraxl)
I set my curve on the Zeel at a flat 15 deg, compensation value at 30, fired the bike up and checked all three cylinders with the strobe and all three fired exactly on the 15 deg mark I made! Reved it up and down the mark nevr moved so the compensation value is correct.
Then I programed a flat curve at 23.5 deg same results fired right between my 20 and 25 deg mark on all three no movement.
Then I programmed a 27 deg flat curve, you have to change the static angle setting in the Zeel it won't fire past the set static angle, and it fired just past the 25 deg mark but I don't know how far it didn't seem far enough of me to believe it was 27.
I am going to mark the rotor from 25 to 30 deg BTDC in one degree marks if I can just to see for myself where the unit is firing.
One thing I will note is it appears that I do have all three pick up right on, i don't need to move them to get then to fire exactly the same, which I assumed would be impossible to do without a strobe, I was either very meticulous (which i was) setting up the pick-ups OR (more likely) just got lucky OR i don't know what the F#@& I'm doing!


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:11 am 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Demus.....looks like you are on the right track :!: .........wonder why you can't get around 27 static with everything turned all the way (as I found my error and thats what Jorgen got :?: and few others I have heard)........I figured between the 2 casting lines on the rotor is 16 degrees....looks like you are close.........I marked dot in the center of my rotor bolt, so when using the strobe, would not be off at an angle.....then I adjust the L and R pickups.....perfect now........the hard part is done man, now just the goofing around part, which is fun :thumbup:

I used the dial indicator (using Moo's spreadsheet) and did some math for a back up...........the rotor diameter is 60.4 mm across X 3.1416 = 189.752mm circumfrence
189.752/360 degrees=.52709mm per degree......X10= 5.271 MM around the rotor per 10 degrees change

THX Phil :wave:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:47 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Im not saying I'm not at 27 deg, I need to convince myself where it fires, once I get some more marks I will post the max advance I am at.
Our saying at work is "trust no one…check check and double check" and Im applying that here, I need to see it for myself!

Please don't think I don't trust the info provided here ITS JUST A SAYING :P :P
This site and those who post here are top notch :thumb up:

Phil I did kinda the same thing to figure out the degrees. I used my Architectural drawing program at work, worked to a point the distances are right on. I printed it out and did cut outs but I had trouble transferring it with accuracy to the signal rotor, so went a different direction.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:11 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
Posts: 797
Hi demus.

If you set the adjustable timing mark to match left rotor mark at 3.13 mm btdc, and program your zeel to 23 degrees........what static angle do you have to put into your zeel to strobe the mark at exactly the 3,13 mark you just made?

Thing is: If you have to program the static to, let's say, 26.1 degrees, to match the 3.13mm mark (23 degrees btdc) with a strpoboscope, then YOU KNOW the static should be 26.1!!

And you have to do the same thing on all 3 cylinders, as the crank not necessarily is 120 degrees apart. Mine crank is almost 4 degrees off on right cylinder compared to left and center. (about 0,5mm difference btdc, don't remember)

That's like mother kawi did their cranks back then......pretty normal

Jørgen

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