Quote:
Oh, sorry. I forgot 1 major issue: The zeel does not delay as much as the stock iggy. That means, if you do what I just said, you will get MORE ADVANCE than the 23 that is stock.
Don't know by how much, but I guess by a degree or 2.
So:
1: Find 3.13mm and set your mark, equal to 23
2: Program a flat 23 degree curve on Zeel.
3: Set the Static Angle to for example 25 degrees.
4: Stroboscope the mark you set after the 3.13mm measurement
5: Adjust Static Timing on Zeel until you hit your 3.13 mm mark spot on with the stroboscope.
6: Do the same on the 2 other cylinders, as most cranks are not spot on 120 120 120
Jørgen
I totally agree with what Jorgen is saying (it's pretty easy in hindsight)
Thats why I put my TAB at 3.13mm .124" to the casting line on the rotor L Just like a stock setup, mark a dot in the center of the rotor bolt so you are not at an angle with timing light
Plate and pickups all the way to the right
Zeel static angle set at 27 on my bike
Zeel advance (for the whole system at 0)
8 curves......each set at 23 flat
fire it up, move your static angle + or - only till it lines up perfect with the strobe and TAB which is L
then do C and R individual......I had -.7 and - 1.2 and 0.....you will see it with the strobe
then you are set
now you can program a MAP up to whatever your static angle is set to (27 on my bike)
5.27mm on the rotor is 10 degrees, then add some marks if desired to watch it
Moo.....I think you like this thing.......I noticed an immediate improvement
THX Phil