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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
This conversation is now off track because of me…. sorry :oops:
Im just trying to figure out my controller and max advance!
I am firing where I want Im sure of that.
Setting this unit up is EASY!!
And I was just trying to make sure I wasn't misunderstanding anything.

jyrgNorway wrote:
If you have been runnuing with stock ignition 23 degrees static, all you have to do is set the static angle on zeel to 23 degrees, and also set the firing point to 23 degrees.
Then you have the exact same ignition timings as a stock ignition, exept for the build in -<4000 rpm ignition advance you have with stock iggy.

Its just that simple :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 3:52 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
Posts: 797
demus wrote:
This conversation is now off track because of me…. sorry :oops:
Im just trying to figure out my controller and max advance!
I am firing where I want Im sure of that.
Setting this unit up is EASY!!
And I was just trying to make sure I wasn't misunderstanding anything.

jyrgNorway wrote:
If you have been runnuing with stock ignition 23 degrees static, all you have to do is set the static angle on zeel to 23 degrees, and also set the firing point to 23 degrees.
Then you have the exact same ignition timings as a stock ignition, exept for the build in -<4000 rpm ignition advance you have with stock iggy.

Its just that simple :thumbup:


Oh, sorry. I forgot 1 major issue: The zeel does not delay as much as the stock iggy. That means, if you do what I just said, you will get MORE ADVANCE than the 23 that is stock.
Don't know by how much, but I guess by a degree or 2.

So:
1: Find 3.13mm and set your mark, equal to 23
2: Program a flat 23 degree curve on Zeel.
3: Set the Static Angle to for example 25 degrees.
4: Stroboscope the mark you set after the 3.13mm measurement
5: Adjust Static Timing on Zeel until you hit your 3.13 mm mark spot on with the stroboscope.
6: Do the same on the 2 other cylinders, as most cranks are not spot on 120 120 120

Jørgen

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72 H2, 72 H1B, 74 H2, 74 H2 Cafê Racer, 71 F8 Bison


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:52 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Quote:
Oh, sorry. I forgot 1 major issue: The zeel does not delay as much as the stock iggy. That means, if you do what I just said, you will get MORE ADVANCE than the 23 that is stock.
Don't know by how much, but I guess by a degree or 2.

So:
1: Find 3.13mm and set your mark, equal to 23
2: Program a flat 23 degree curve on Zeel.
3: Set the Static Angle to for example 25 degrees.
4: Stroboscope the mark you set after the 3.13mm measurement
5: Adjust Static Timing on Zeel until you hit your 3.13 mm mark spot on with the stroboscope.
6: Do the same on the 2 other cylinders, as most cranks are not spot on 120 120 120

Jørgen


I totally agree with what Jorgen is saying (it's pretty easy in hindsight)

Thats why I put my TAB at 3.13mm .124" to the casting line on the rotor L Just like a stock setup, mark a dot in the center of the rotor bolt so you are not at an angle with timing light

Plate and pickups all the way to the right

Zeel static angle set at 27 on my bike
Zeel advance (for the whole system at 0)
8 curves......each set at 23 flat
fire it up, move your static angle + or - only till it lines up perfect with the strobe and TAB which is L
then do C and R individual......I had -.7 and - 1.2 and 0.....you will see it with the strobe
then you are set
now you can program a MAP up to whatever your static angle is set to (27 on my bike)
5.27mm on the rotor is 10 degrees, then add some marks if desired to watch it

Moo.....I think you like this thing.......I noticed an immediate improvement :thumbup:

THX Phil


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:01 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
I have received some good info from both Jorgen and Phil on they Zeel unit and with there help I am now totally confidant I have set it up correctly, and it was very easy.
There were a few nagging questions in my mind , and apparently only in my mind :crazy:

The questions I had was if you could adjust the static angle with the bike running and how you set the timing on the other two cylinders and why did they use 23 deg when the Zeel instructions don't mention that value?

Below is a response from Jorgen that explains a bit more on setting up the timing, and Phil also stated the same thing when I spoke with him :thumbup:
Jorgen suggested I could post this, it helped me, I cannot be the only thick person trying to set up a Zeltronic unit…

Yes, I adjust the zeel static timing when the engine is running. That way I find the correct angle as long as I have measured the 3,13mm 23 degrees prior to the zeel static angle settings.

And then, as you correctly said: Fine tune f.ex left cylinder until you are spot on the 23 degree mark by adjsuting the static angle on the controller.

Then you fine tune the 2 other cylinders by using the advance single channel feature on the zeel.

Now, you are spot on the 23 degrees timing on all 3 cylinders, and you have a correct base point as 23 degrees is stock. I dont understand why a 15 degree value is used. 23 degree is stock, and we stick to 23 as a base refereance in my opinion. Why make this harder than it is. I use 60 microS delay by the way.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 3:49 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Good Deal Joe....Thats what these sites are all about !.......sharing information......Thank You Jorgen as well

Now that you have it set for a flat curve........you can try that Basic Borut H2 Map, you will see an improvement !

If you check in program MAP Switch ON.......if you ground the MAP lead, MAP 2 is in effect.......You will have to program ALL your settings into MAP2 (same as MAP1) and then modify the curves.........good to go.

I having my jetting real close (used some .020 washers under the clip, tried O-8 needle jets, too lean, put the P-0 back in)........programed a more aggressive MAP up to 27 at 4000 rpm, then cut it down to 23 at 5400 and then down.........took it out and let it rip, holy cow man......strong ;)

I think the Borut MAP is a bit better for just riding around........still testing and jetting.......cool outside today.........I now want a switch on the handlebars :thumbup:

THX Phil :wave:


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2016 11:52 am 

Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:37 am
Posts: 83
Location: USA
So this system does away with much of the old, crusty ignition and associated issues

The magnets and pickups remain

Any thoughts on how the magnets hold up and if this affects the ignition performance? Retentivity

Years ago I cut one of these (flywheels, rotors, not sure of name) apart and took the magnets out, they are not very strong by today's standards


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 9:19 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
MotoMetal

The Stator, the rotor........the left side of the motor stays the same..........it's just signal pickup leads to trigger the "Zeeltronic"........no big deal..........the Zeeltronic is a game changer...........it works on a "Delay" of signal response...........therefore once advanced, the delay is then programmed in accordingly.........then the advance\retard curves can be custom programed...........it boost's performence and accelaration.........advance down low.......retard up high..........there are all kinds of pipe dynamics that come into play........won't get into all that now

If you have a Jims Box (stellar unit)........just use a VCDI-30 controller...........if you want to repalce the entire CDI box.......use a PCDI-30

My post shows a plug and play setup........no cut leads, etc.......just bulllet connectors.........I can put the stock CDI back on just by plugging it in..........and re-timing

Read the post completley.........all the info is there.........it's a bad ass unit :thumbup:

THX Phil :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2016 1:20 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Here is a link to some info, you may have already read it, the high and low speed coils are apparently by-passed with this system.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6485&hilit=low+speed+coils+zeeltronic


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 11:34 am 

Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:37 am
Posts: 83
Location: USA
BBP wrote:
MotoMetal

The Stator, the rotor........the left side of the motor stays the same..........it's just signal pickup leads to trigger the "Zeeltronic"........no big deal..........the Zeeltronic is a game changer...........it works on a "Delay" of signal response...........therefore once advanced, the delay is then programmed in accordingly.........then the advance\retard curves can be custom programed...........it boost's performence and accelaration.........advance down low.......retard up high..........there are all kinds of pipe dynamics that come into play........won't get into all that now

If you have a Jims Box (stellar unit)........just use a VCDI-30 controller...........if you want to repalce the entire CDI box.......use a PCDI-30

My post shows a plug and play setup........no cut leads, etc.......just bulllet connectors.........I can put the stock CDI back on just by plugging it in..........and re-timing

Read the post completley.........all the info is there.........it's a bad ass unit :thumbup:

THX Phil :thumbup:


All good info and I'll make use of it some day...thanks

but...I think you missed the point of my post...I'm asking if anyone has played with the rotor, the pc. with the magnets in it...if I understand correctly, this is what triggers the Zeel system to spark. It could be that even though relatively weak, it's enough to do the job but I would think a stronger field would be more stable and consistent. Modern neo magnets are likely available in similar size.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:33 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Bill B might be able to answer that question.


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