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What I have always found with the air screws is, factory setting is the right setting, and if the mix is wrong, vary the jet. And, that all the screws should be set the same, if it is 1 turn, all should end up 1 turn, 1-1/2 turn, 1-1/2 turn.
Also, what I find with multiple vacuum gauges like the original factory setups used, they might read all the same, at, say, 12 in/hg vacuum, but, after that, no dice. A check should be made of all vacuum gauges in a set, off ONE carb, with ONE vacuum feed to all 3 gauges at the same time, connect them with vacuum T fittings, and read at multiple throttle settings for accuracy.
A mercury manometer won't have a lot of lift in the columns on a two stroke, but, about/near 2 bars above the reservoir should be seen. The main thing is to get all the columns aligned same, same.
When I set the carb synch, I take the bike out and flog it to get it cleaned out, and up to operating temperature. Then, I shut the engine down, and put the bike straight up, and with the front wheel centered in the middle of its turn radius. Then, I do the open synch first, using the throttle cable adjuster at the twist grip to raise the slides to attain 2,500 rpms, and set the carb cable adjusters for synch.
Then, I return the cable adjuster at the twist grip down to idle speed, and the slides back against their stop screws, and adjust the idle synch.
I then shut the engine down, and set the full open oil pump setting, to the last dot (wide open throttle setting dot) on the cable puller, to the line on the pump post. I do not set the oil pump by the idle line on the cable pull, that will give way too much oil to the engine.
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