Kawi2strokes.com Forum

This seems to be straight forward on how they do this. I never knew about the light, I thought they just eyeballed it. I must be getting old...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e1B0qJD ... ata_player[url][/url]

I don't understand why they wont do yours. Maybe it's not reachable from the inside??

Here's a guy doing a Harley, but he doesn't talk much.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ro-Oy073 ... ata_player
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Think you will find a H2 fuel-tank is a lot thicker and tougher than a modern car panel, and any time you dent a tank (or anything), you are actually stretching the metal - you have to make more of it go back into the same place!! There is a place for paintless type repairs, but I am a bit sceptical about an old triple tank!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Rod.. as I stated, I have had Kawasaki Triple tanks repaired via PDR (along with some vintage Honda stuff as well).

Yes, the metal is thicker, and yes, you "stretch" the metal back into place. It definately requires more work (leverage/muscle), but is totally possible. Ive watched it done with my own two eyes. Its pretty cool watching them "work" the dent out...and deep/sharp dents can be difficult and time consuming.

Thankfully, I have a friend (Darren) that is in the biz, and is EXTREMELY good at what he does. When I came off of my freshly restored '70 H1 last year, my boot put a good sized dent in the left side of the gas tank, just in front of the forward part of the "scallop".
Not only did it leave a dent, but also left a nice "scuff". It didn't scratch the paint, just left residue of the sole of my boot..

Darren was able to work the dent out to the point where I actually said "good enough" and told him not to go any further. He was going for "perfection" since he knows me pretty well and sometimes I can be a bit uh, picky about stuff like that..

9999999 out of 10000000 would never ever know it was ever there unless I was able to get it in the right light, angle, phase of the moon, etc...

I didn't even bother re-wetsanding (sometimes, if the clear coat is thick enough, you can wetsand out the itty-bitty final "tooling" marks to completely disappear. I just buffed out the bootscuff and it looks (almost) perfect again.

Trent, as stated, find an Independant guy. Bodyshops want insurance work, and dont give a crap about nickel and dime jobs.. If you go to a bodyshop, just walk in back and talk to one of the guys (NOT THE MANAGER) and ask if they know a good PDR guy? Someone will......

After reading this post, specially the ding king stuff I had a go at removing some dents on my workhorse ute yesterday.
Not having a kit or a slide hammer I improvised. Hot glued an eyebolt to the middle of the dent & attached a strap- gave it a sharp tug and It works. Just normal hot glue and an eye bolt I had hanging around.
Luckily (or rather not) I have a wide selection of dented triple tanks- I'm going to have a go at them in various ways to see what works best. I have already had experience using compressed air, and for me its too much of a gamble.

The "ding king" glue is very similar to hot glue. Try to use a low melt glue if you can. Most paint is plenty heat resistant, but why take the chance if you don't need to

Took advice and managed to get hold of a independent PDR guy. He's going to pick my tank up on Monday and take it to his workshop. Will try and get before/after pics hopefully.