Kawi2strokes.com Forum

And 5 minutes to pass it along to me...sometimes something as plain as the nose on your face eludes you!

Ian - it was a darn good tip since it did not enter my mind.

I checked the carbs and the slides were all in the correct locations. That was just dumb luck since I picked them up randomly when I put the new cables on. Carbs are back on the bike / all cables adjusted / carbs synced. The fuel tank was drained out. I am on my way to get fresh fuel and spark plugs.

FYI - I am running the stock air box with stock paper filter, stock exhaust pipes in good condition with repacked baffles, all stock jetting in carbs.

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3

Update:

I took the baffles out and removed the packing. This material that I bought from a motorcycle supply place is very dense and I believe it was a much different restriction than the original stuff. I repacked with fiberglass home insulation.

I started over from scratch with carb tuning including cable slack, etc. It starts up OK and I adjusted the idle. I rode it for about 3 miles. Hurray! no more plug fouling and dropping a cylinder within minutes. There were several stop signs and I took it to 8500 rpm in each gear. Pulls great above 5,000 rpm but stumbles in mid-range. I thought maybe it was acting rich in the mid-range so I raised the clips from #3 to #2 on the needles. No real change in mid-range response. Still pulls strong with full throttle above 5,000 rpm.

My next step is to move the clips back to #3 and carefully check ignition timing.

Here is another symptom: It really stumbles around in first gear until I hit 5,000 rpm or so, then when I shift to second it pulls pretty nicely in mid-range. Same for 3rd and 4th as long as I am accelerating. Do I still just have crap in the crankcase? Should I go flog it for a while?

It's not quite right yet, but I am having a good time.

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3

Your pilots might be clogged. When you put a bike back together after a hiatus, the crap from the gas tank plays havoc with the pilot jets. You know the carbs are spotless because you cleaned them like crazy, but sure enough debris from the tank sneaks into those wee little pilot jet holes and you end up with no bottom end.

Ian - that is a good suggestion. I will pull the carbs off and verify that the pilot jets are all clean.

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3

Sounds like it is loading up with something, what I mean is; it could be gas or oil. Sinking float, oil pump set too rich, jetting to rich. I have had all these things on different bikes, sometimes at the same time!!

How much smoke are you seeing when you first get on the throttle? You should not be seeing a cloud. Of course the floats have been rattle tested. If all is well, it is time to carefully lean the jetting.

When I was chasing things around on the H2 after initial assembly, I was getting a minor response with the jetting, so I dropped the main 3-4 sizes, Man! did that thing haul! But when I got home it was so hot it seemed like hours before I could touch the clutch cover and not burn my fingers!!

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

Your comment about clip location not having any noticeable effect is not normal and tends to make me think there is a problem with the pilot circuit and/or air.

The change you describe occurring with changing muffler packing also doesn't compute.

The best packing material to use is FMF 2-stroke packing available at many dealerships/parts houses. It should be wrapped as shown in the top baffle.... assuming you are using stock pipes.


What air filter/system are you using?
Are you using 22.5 pilots?
Are floats leaking?
Is float level properly set?
Did you adjust air screws per manual? http://www.3cyl.com/mraxl/manuals/carbt ... #adj%20low
I agree with Ian that pilots can clog very easily with a freshly cleaned tank regardless of how well you think it may have been cleaned.

It is questionable about whether or not you have cleared the crankcase... running it 3mi above 6K with spurts to redline should do it.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Good point


I used a material called Helix Heavy Duty Muffler Packing - wrong material for triple pipes! The fiberglass that I used is similar to the FMF 2-stroke packing. I will purchase some soon. The pipes are my old beat up stock pipes and my packed baffles look just like the example in your picture.


Stock air box, new rubber tubes, new stock paper filter.

I believe they are 22.5 but will verify when I have them out to clean.

No leaks in the floats.

Float level is 25mm for all three carbs.

Yes, per your suggestion earlier.

I will take a look and hope to find some obstructions.

When the temperature in the garage drops back below 100 again I will get those carbs off the bike. Thanks for all the input.

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3

Hey guys, I think I found something wrong with my carbs.

First, I verified that I have 22.5 pilot jets and the pilot circuit is clean in all three carbs.

My carbs have tubes pressed in the body that extend down below the fuel level. These are part of the pilot system - I believe. One of them has a tiny orifice at the end. The other two have the full tube diameter open to the fuel. I think the pilots are sucking up a large amount of fuel through this tube - making the mid-range stumble that I have.

Here is what it looks like:


I have gone over everything in the carbs very closely more than once. I can't find anything else that looks suspect.

My plan is to make a plug for the tubes and drill the hole to match the existing one.

Any other ideas about this situation?

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3

I believe that is the pick up tube for the choke/enrichener. The pilot system is a separate circuit. There are some tiny passages in the pilot system. compressed air and a bit of carb cleaner can be used to see if they are clear. Protective eye wear necessary of course.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........