Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I'm using an STE SK Syncrometer (small version) with good results.
It measures airflow in kilograms per hour (kg/h) and dosen't affect the idle at all.
Just a tad below 5 kg/h on each cylinder and I get my preferred 1750 RPM idle.

PK

I have shared this before but I added two vacuum ports to the engine side of the carbs. Just like the one that powers the petcock, and adjusting the idle screws and the cables takes just a couple of minutes using my mercury sticks.
And they are dead nuts right.

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Using a poorly conceived idea along with bad mechanical practice is not an upgrade but rather a recipe for disaster.

^^^^ Have you used your tools to check sync/ flow during cable operation? Perfect flow sync does reduce vibration.....

J

If you really want to cure vibration, ride a Honda.......

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

The mistake the guys who worry about vibration made is owning something besides a triple at some point.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Or riding bikes with electric starters, hydraulic clutches and such..........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Some years ago, I outlined just how to set both the idle and off idle synch of the carbs, I think it might still be on mraxl's site.

Yup, electric starters, hydraulic clutches, reed valves, 34mm carbs, etc.. Wait, maybe hydraulic clutch actuators, reed valves, and bigger carbs fall into the "worthwhile improvements" category.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Don't forget the auto shift and air ride

The method I have been using has been to use vacuum gages (similar to merc sticks) to set the throttle position. I added holes in the carbs for screw-in air fittings, on the engine side of the slide. I have never had any luck setting the air or fuel mix screws using them, but I probably did it wrong. Can anyone offer any advice for doing this?

Also, just so I am sure I am doing i right:

I am to adjust the air mix screws with the slides in their fully lowered position
-I definately can't get the bike to idle in this condition. Am I supposed to obtain an idle by screwing in the idle screw on hichever carb I am trying to adjust, leaving the other two backed out?
-Adjust mix screws to obtain highest possible rpm

Once air mix screws are adjusted, now I set the idle screws on each carb. If I am using my vacuum gages I should be trying to achieve the same amount of vacuum on each carb

Once the idle screws are set, I should adjust for desired idle

Now I get to set the cable adjusters on the carbs with the engine running at about 3000 rpm, using the vacuum gages. I assume I am again trying to get each vaccum reading to be the same. I also assume that I want to adjust by 'making the cable longer', not shorter (If I go shorter it seems like the cable could end up lifting the slide off the idle screw, right?)

On a side note to this: I currently have Fast-By-Gast chambers on my engine with individual K&N style filters, a 105 main jet (stock) with the needle in the 3rd notch. The FBG instructions indicate that I should have a 112.5 main jet instead of the stock 105, and that the niddle clip should be in the second to bottom position, essentially raising the needle up. Anybody have any feel for this? What are other guys running?

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ride hard, ride long, ride safe!
Jason
72 h2 in a 93 Katana
03 cbr600rr
80 kz750 ltd
94 pw50