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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
I had thought the pilot was good I have tried everything from 20 to 35 and settled on 27.5 BUT I don't think the bike was warm enough seemed like 27.5 were lean yesterday.
I had 240 mains in at one point and the bike revved and pulled from 6000 to 9000 so fast I had a very hard time shifting, I could barely get to the clutch and shift fast enough. My first thought was if any inexperienced rider were to do this they would drive this thing into the weeds!!
But as I read thru the tuning stuff more and more the suggestion was to have HUGE mains until everything else was right so that what I did, and it still pulls very well in that range but it is to rich for sure.
The p-2's I ordered because it looked like going to p-4's was like next to nothing changing compare to the p-5's when I played with the excel sheet comparing needles and needle jets, its a neat worksheet but maybe lead me astray?

Mraxl's idea for jetting is very close to what I was going to try, I was going to leave the p-2 I have in with the 6dh4 needles on the second clip, go to 30 pilots and 270 mains, maybe 250 would be good also?? The 240's didn't seem that lean at the time, but I don't want to hole a piston either and I have found out I need to get it HOT HOT before I judge anything.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:48 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:59 pm
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Location: South Australia
I don't know about the reed thing as far as tuning for the H2 P-2 seems crazy lean, but with 192 deg exh duration , add 5 minimum degrees to the transfers before you use half your life jetting and timing. Then it will want to go. And as Jorgen says get a larger carb. If you must persist with the 34VM , then try a 5FP-17 needle with a P6 and a 2.0 air jet.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 1:13 am 
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Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
There is no need for 38's, 34's work just fine. And it it's not flooding out at 3/4 throttle, then put in bigger main jets. You need to get the other circuits working first.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:56 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
Posts: 971
Location: Eagle Wisconsin
Don't know if it makes much difference for this conversation but I thought I would add it.
There are also boost ports that were added which aren't shown on the port map.(John already knew :D )

I knew when I posted this info and questions that it wold give me HEAPS more to think about that I hadn't thought about..WHEW!
Wish I was half as smart as all the guys who posted to this topic, maybe someday :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:05 am 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
Posts: 797
Sorry for the confusion I made regarding carb size demus.

Putting on bigger carbs to your set up is probably pointless as you need big reed boxes to gain power from the big advantage in using bigger carbs.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 1:34 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
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Location: Eagle Wisconsin
jyrgNorway wrote:
Sorry for the confusion I made regarding carb size demus.

Putting on bigger carbs to your set up is probably pointless as you need big reed boxes to gain power from the big advantage in using bigger carbs.


Ya I know.... But all the info is great I need to learn, been reading some more stuff too.
Im not looking for max hp or anything, just want it to run as good as it can, hopefully without a huge flat spot but if so maybe down the road some day I will address it.

Thanks for all the input!


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 1:56 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
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BTW Demus;

How many mm did you measure from piston crown to tdc when setting your mechanical ign timing?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:04 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2012 9:00 pm
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Location: Eagle Wisconsin
jyrgNorway wrote:
BTW Demus;

How many mm did you measure from piston crown to tdc when setting your mechanical ign timing?


.123" on my dial gauge (3.13mm)

I checked all of it several times and I am going over it all again just as soon as I get time. I am actually hoping at this point I find something I did wrong that will be easy to fix and help the tuning process. I tried like crazy to follow all the info you had given me previously and Phil (BBP) also talked me through it a couple times. You both where huge helps, so If Im wrong Its my own fault at this point :oops:

I also measured and marked 10, 15, 20, 25 on the rotor for each piston so I could watch it advance and check it compared to the Zeel controller.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:24 pm 

Joined: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 865
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Quote:
I have the throttle marked and the problem areas are bogging off line, 1/8 to 1/4 throttle seems to burble a lot there, and then 1/2 to 3/4 Im having trouble deciding what needle position is best, not a lot of change when I change clip position, I do know when its to rich and to lean but there seems to be a two needle clip positions that work the same, thinking I should stay in the rich side of the settings,
The main right now is 310 and way to rich.


Demus

Of course my bike is piston port, squish heads, zeel and VM34's with UFO's.....but

1) I had a slight bogging off the line, could rev it and a slight delay......I also had to hit the choke button a couple of times when taking off when cold.........went from 15 pilots to 17.5 (UFO'd, yours will be bigger...like 30 to 35)...........fixed that, major improvement.......if it's peaky and bogs off idle, richen that up

2) I had burble and rich spot at 1/8 to 3/8 throttle........that is more the needle jet than the needle as the needle jet is the FIRST 62 percent of throttle opening from 1/8 to 3/4........it's in the mikuni manual VM supertuning, a chart........with my stock motor at first I had P6.......changed to a P2 and transformed the bike........then I did the squish heads and it was rich again.........went down to a P-0 (UFO'd though).......I tried a 0-8 and did about 1/2 mile, that was way lean and you could tell.......went back, tried the P-2's and rich....put the P-0 back in........perfect........I would go smaller than P-5 or P-6........you will know if it's lean instantly, go home and up them

3) Was on the 6DH4 needle clip 2..........just felt like it needed to be very slightly richer earlier.........put in a 6DH3 needle, clip 2, the taper starts earlier........that one drove me nuts trying to figure it out with the EXCEL table......very nice improvement with the Zeel advance (it will lean them out when advancing some as you know)........I got a 6DH3 and a 6DH7 and tried both........I like Neville suggestion on his needle choice and would like to try that.........but I don't think I need to

4) I think you are way rich on the Main Jet.......I tried a 260.......then a 240........then a 230 for a while........went down to a 220 and it rip's........have not seized it, so I guess it's OK.......(Your Bike will need bigger......maybe a 240 guessing)

5) I did a lot of this on a flat curve at first, then had to do it all over again with the Zeel........I also tried the low advance at idle, bike did not like it...........23 degrees at 1800........up to 26 at 3000.........down to 23 at 6000 or so, then on down......was good for jetting on MY bike

THX Phil :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 3:29 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 10:26 am
Posts: 797
3,13?!!!!

That is for stock 23 degrees timing. I meant your mechanical static timing, or maximum advarte timing.

hmmmmmm......something is maybe not correct here demus

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