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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 6:28 am 

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 143
My bike came to me with the right side apart, and missing pieces . As I see it, starting from the cover coming out, it should be :
round rubber seal
round dished plastic
then the rotor , but im not sure how the rotor attatches to the dist shaft. The shaft has a flat side, so does the rotor just slide on with no fastener? ....to be held in place by the dist itself?
then another round seal
then the actual distributor..
I also have no plug wires and grommets. Just wondering if others have recommendations for wires/caps/plugs ect
My distributor looks well used, but with no cracks. My rotor seems complete. My bike came with the low cover but it was cracked pretty bad. So I am now running the high cover.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:43 pm
Posts: 561
I'd fix the low cover. The grommet you can buy and get wires
And caps. This is the year to do it on .

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 12:24 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Plastic shield first, insulator gasket next, then cap.

Rotors come in 3 different flavors, two used 28mm shafts. First rotors were retained on the distributor shaft with a screw, to get it off, you either took the clutch cover off and disassembled the drive, shaft, or, per bulletin, broke it off, and replaced it with a 28mm "QD" (Quick Disconnect) type rotor that slid on to the shaft, no screw. These rotors were either brown, or black.

Later engines used a 31mm QD shaft and rotor, colored green.

If you use the low cover, use a good set of plugs wires, the reason the covers and their wires were changed is that some owners that refused to learn how the fuel valves worked,eft them in prime, carbs over flowed fuel right into the. Distributor, and blew both the distributor and cover right off the side of the bike. When the fuel over flowed the carbs, plugged up case drains allowed the fuel last the wire insulator, also destroying the plug wire insulation.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 5:54 am 

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 143
porschedave wrote:
I'd fix the low cover. The grommet you can buy and get wires
And caps. This is the year to do it on .


I gave it to a pharmaceutical / nuclear certified welder that I know....he said the metal was horrible and I havnt seen it since...that was 5 months ago......

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 5:57 am 

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 143
H2RTuner wrote:
Plastic shield first, insulator gasket next, then cap.

Rotors come in 3 different flavors, two used 28mm shafts. First rotors were retained on the distributor shaft with a screw, to get it off, you either took the clutch cover off and disassembled the drive, shaft, or, per bulletin, broke it off, and replaced it with a 28mm "QD" (Quick Disconnect) type rotor that slid on to the shaft, no screw. These rotors were either brown, or black.

Later engines used a 31mm QD shaft and rotor, colored green.

If you use the low cover, use a good set of plugs wires, the reason the covers and their wires were changed is that some owners that refused to learn how the fuel valves worked,eft them in prime, carbs over flowed fuel right into the. Distributor, and blew both the distributor and cover right off the side of the bike. When the fuel over flowed the carbs, plugged up case drains allowed the fuel last the wire insulator, also destroying the plug wire insulation.

I beleive my rotor is black. My shaft has a hole in it for a fastener, but I dont think my black rotor does... I will have another look today

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 8:04 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:43 pm
Posts: 561
The cover will be painted at the end correct so repair
Can be done in lots of ways

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 8:41 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
That would give you a first design 28mm shaft, and second design, first QD rotor, per one of the first FDM's. It might be on the Resources site to view.

The 3rd design, 2nd GREEN type QD rotor WILL NOT FIT correctly.

Although there were all sorts of changes going on all the time, the first real FDM on this came along for engine numbers 8801 and up.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 6:31 am 

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 143
H2RTuner wrote:
That would give you a first design 28mm shaft, and second design, first QD rotor, per one of the first FDM's. It might be on the Resources site to view.

The 3rd design, 2nd GREEN type QD rotor WILL NOT FIT correctly.

Although there were all sorts of changes going on all the time, the first real FDM on this came along for engine numbers 8801 and up.

My engine number is 1507 . Im going to attempt assembly today. I will snap a few photos along the way. I think I have all the needed parts at this point.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 11:44 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
That would indicate you want to look for the FDM revised rotor, brown/red, QD, 28mm shaft, not the green rotor.

To use another BLACK rotor would require taking the clutch cover off the engine, removing the distributor shaft, and installing rotor, with hold on screw, not QD. Removing the shaft is the only way a screw can ge inserted into the rotor and shaft, if not, the screw hits the clutch cover. You can get ;em out, but not back in without pulliung the clutch cover.

If you are attempting to match the original cover paint, closest I found was a Lubri-Tec paint, and clear, "Honda Cloud Silver", and their enamel clar coat. Yes, I now, "silver", but, it comes out the correct gray/silver finish.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 12:12 pm 

Joined: Tue Jun 21, 2011 5:11 pm
Posts: 143
here are photos of my progress so far

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12412&start=20

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