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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 2:47 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
H2RTuner wrote:
Last thing, the spacer stack on the shift shaft between the case and clutch cover too tight, binding up when engine gets hot? Extra spacer where it shouldn't be? Outer end spacer on shaft backwards, but it looked right in the videos?

I'm now just throwing out ideas.

You and Ron will get it dialed in and fixed.


I had that problem on a 69 Dave. Was my fault, I had the spacer washer on the wrong side and it bound up when the clutch cover went on. After
reading your post I wonder if the problems I had on three of the bikes was a alignment pin issue and not a worn shift shaft claw/tooth problem.
All three did the same thing as Barry's and not rotate the drum far enough in one direction. I plan on coming by Barry, maybe a set of fresh eyes
will help.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 3:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
67lotus49 wrote:
H2RTuner wrote:
Last thing, the spacer stack on the shift shaft between the case and clutch cover too tight, binding up when engine gets hot? Extra spacer where it shouldn't be? Outer end spacer on shaft backwards, but it looked right in the videos?

I'm now just throwing out ideas.

You and Ron will get it dialed in and fixed.


I had that problem on a 69 Dave. Was my fault, I had the spacer washer on the wrong side and it bound up when the clutch cover went on. After
reading your post I wonder if the problems I had on three of the bikes was a alignment pin issue and not a worn shift shaft claw/tooth problem.
All three did the same thing as Barry's and not rotate the drum far enough in one direction. I plan on coming by Barry, maybe a set of fresh eyes
will help.

Fresh eyes welcome! !!!!!!!

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:42 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Ron, yup, that special washer has a step in it. the step is there ti clear the weld that connects the shift shaft to the lever. I've even seen one bike with two of them in place, one on the case side of the shaft, the other on the cover side, both backwards, and shift shaft locked up solid.

You two guys'll get it fixed, no worries.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
It would help if I didn't have to wear 3.0 mag reading glasses for close up work Dave. :lol:


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
Lenses are your friends, embrace them. I wear +4 diopter lenses for welding.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 11:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:26 pm
Posts: 1805
Location: Running Springs Ca
The joys of getting older Jim.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 1:13 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:25 am
Posts: 3137
Site? You mean you can actually SEE that stuff? All I do is feel all around, can't actually see anything.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:29 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2011 8:14 pm
Posts: 272
Sorry Barry, no help from me this time!
:thumbup:


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 10:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
johns02r6 wrote:
Sorry Barry, no help from me this time!
:thumbup:


Huh?

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 12:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3821
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
The NOS shaft and pawl does the same thing (I did not think this was the problem)

-- Mostly changing gears OK but sometimes sticks/clicks and won't move to another gear, takes A LOT of jiggling the primary and output shafts to get the gears to align and shift up or down.

Even if the pawl is not centered -- I removed the stop bolt and still won't always move the drum fully (I can tell gears hitting each other).

NOTE: When I move the drum manually it's MUCH smoother changing gears. Sometimes I still have to jiggle the primary and output shafts but only a little and it moves through the gears easily.

So I'm still thinking something with the pawl but with the stop bolt removed this should not be an issue at all - right?

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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