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 Post subject: clutch actuator style?
PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:23 am 

Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:28 pm
Posts: 194
Location: West Coast
Hello, I have two types of clutch actuating mechanisms for H2. Engine is 75 and the doner is an early 74. Which one is best? One has the nylon mesh gear the other doesn't. Both are in good condition. I have not used either one but am rebuilding an engine that got a clutch replacement. The nylon one came on the 75engine and the steel one was on the doner motor. They also have different push rod lengths?! Comments?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:30 am 

Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:28 pm
Posts: 194
Location: West Coast
I read the info on the resource site. Now I have more questions. How do I know the gasket kit had the right gasket for depth? It was a veshra kit. Sounds like this could cause problems if I don't set it up right.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:16 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
The Ball Bearing release, if this is one that you have, would be the most improved factory type and the best one to use. Click on the link below.

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All clutch releases are interchangeable. However, the ball bearing release must be used
with a 92050-070 seal or spaced out to prevent seal destruction in the H series.

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http://3cyl.com/mraxl/partid/clutch/clrelease.htm

Also, another link found at the bottom of that same link, which provides yet 2 more How-To links with youtube videos: :thumbup:

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/clutchrelease/clutch_release_mod.htm

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:56 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
I got lucky awhile back and found a late style ball bearing one in a pile of stuff i bought. Then about 3 months later i found the flimsy retainer inside in nos form. I wonder if there's a way to reproduce that part as it seems like you can bend it only so many times to get the bearings out. :?:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 10, 2011 11:04 am
Posts: 3490
Location: Capitol of Ca, USA
You're talking about #36 right? I bet a few crafty board members could have some made up w/o much problem... :think:
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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3850
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
I got lucky and found a ball-bearing one to replace the nylon one on my 72 that was just cracked and toast. The cable end connection was fubar but repo and some others have a replacement for it.

spacer or seal +1... A spacer will have slight clearance issues on a 530 O-ring - rubs on the adjuster nut just a tad, does on mine anyway.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 9:30 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
Thats the one number36 :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 11:30 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
Posts: 3850
Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
The links above from MRAXL links will go to Moo's youtube - well worth the watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxKcdUjZW6U

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:39 am 

Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:28 pm
Posts: 194
Location: West Coast
Ok, one is the ball bearing one and the other is the nylon one which is not cracked and looks like new. I'll make the spacer and use the ball bearing one. Thanks for the info.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 8:48 am 

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:13 am
Posts: 1001
Location: Auburn Ca
The later model seal is available I got mine from purple haze. The only problem is you have to split the cases which isn't to bad. Gives you a chance to check everything out.


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