Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I used the Caswell plating kit for the fasteners on the B8 I fixed up and it worked great so I bought the gold anodizing solution to go with the Copy-Cad kit. I needed to spruce up the CDI's on the H2 I am putting together. I sanded them down with 400 and then 600 and then buffed with 0000 steel wool. I found with the plating kit that the smoother the surface you plate the shinier it turns out. I dunked the CDI's for 60 seconds in the anodizing bath after I had them in the zinc plate bath for about 10 minutes. I use a little extra brightener in each batch, about twice what it calls for, just because I get better results this way. I think the gold anodize turned out okay. The cleaning solution is between 190 and 200 degrees and I knew the CDI's couldn't take that kind of heat so I called Caswell and their tech guy said it's fine to clean with 409 or simple green or something else before you plate. I used acetone to clean and then did the normal zinc with brightener plating cycle. I submerged the CDI completely in the zinc and the anodize baths(I figured they are sealed and it would be fine, plus I saw no bubbles coming up from them during the plating and the zinc is only 120 degrees for 10 minutes and the anodize bath is room temperature. Now I just hope they work because I didn't test them before I made them look Purdy again. If I can find the screws I will plate them, clean the wires and put it together. I cut the flares off the brake line and anodized the fittings. Now I can flare the ends, the brake line is like new, and I only lost 1/4 from the total length of the line.

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

Nice! Let us know if the ignition still works OK.

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Rotortech
Indianapolis
1974 S3

Nice work! For the record, anodizing is a process that puts a layer of aluminum oxide on aluminum. You're electroplating zinc onto the steel part, and then sealing it with yellow chromate dip. And for some reason Caswell calls it "Copy Cad", even though the yellow plating on the original parts was always yellow chromated zinc.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Excellent job!! Always nice to keep the stuff in house and plate as you build,

Not to mention avoiding having the plater lose your parts, like I hear about so often.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Super lookin boxes.
Feels good to have a project turn out that well, dont it?

What did you clean this up with? Black dip? LOL

What kit or supplies did you have to get to have these results. A good power supply must be needed.

I bought the basic Copy-Cad kit 1.5 gal. kit for $180, the heater for about $50, the cheap $40 battery charger at the local farm store, about $10 in the 700w rheostat control and cord, $30 for the yellow chromate color and I think that's about it. The brochure and instructions are very specific about milliamps per square inch and all that and how should use one of their power supplies but a charger will work. I stopped measuring the voltage and amperage a while back. it's easy enough to control the voltage by the amount of bubbles(or lack thereof)and the time it takes for the plate to take hold and cover. I found that the most important thing is to clean the parts to BARE WHITE metal first. I use an acid soak to strip the finish off. The setting I use on the charger most is the 6v/6amp setting and then use the rheostat to vary it.
You first plate with the Copy-Cad, rinse and dip in the chromate solution for as long as you want to vary the color, I used 60 seconds on the CDI's(I may try 30 next time cause I think they turned out a little too gold). After you take it out of the chromate you immediately dip in a clean bucket of water and dry with a blow-dryer, and the blow dryer step is crucial.




Here is the kit I use.
http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/zinc-plating-kits/chromates/yellow-chromate.html

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1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90

The CDI housings were pretty gold originally, but many have faded noticeably. I've seen a photo of some that RB had replated, and they were darker than yours. Of course it depends on whether you're going for original or what you like.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Guts

You really do some first class work, thats gonna be one sharp bike man !....good info too

In your other post, looks like you got a lot of parts in the bags.......I had a bunch myself........nice to get a lot of the new rubber bits.......and waiting on parts about drove me crazy too !, it's worth it in the end though........and at least you have some spare bike projects.......wish I had another one

THX Phil