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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:45 am 
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Location: St Louis, MO
For all you guys that are restoring bikes, I discovered a technique to restore the oxidized aluminum cases and parts that really works well. First, if there is any remnants of crusty clear coat on the aluminum parts, use a chemical stripper to remove that clear. Second, buy this product: California Custom Aluminum Deoxidizer (sold on ebay) and the follow-up Purple Polish. Third, using 0000 steel wool, dip it in the deoxidizer and scub the aluminum. There is a chemical reaction and you literally see a gas/fog coming off the metal as you scrub. Fourth, polish the metal with the purple polish, either by hand or with a rotary buffer, until the rag turns black. The results exceed any process or products I've tried to date. I contacted the seller, to explain his product was good, but for heavily oxidized engine parts, like on motorcycles, it required 0000 steel wool to cut down and get through the oxidization to a smooth finish. The seller refused to accept my technique, and claimed the product was so good no steel wool was required. Steel wool IS required on heavily oxidized cases and parts. I don't know what's in this formula, but it made my parts look fantastic. See the attached pics... I wish I could load higher res images


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:53 am 
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http://www.californiacustom.com/aluminu ... dizer.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zsbRTODAiwg

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:01 am 
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Thanks for posting links to the product. As you see in their infomercial they are working on diamond plate aluminum that hasn't been subjected to 40 years of weather and elements. Trust me, you will need 0000 steel wool to clean up the typical aged-out aluminum on a 40+ year-old motorcycle. The steel wool does not damage the aluminum finish, so get after it and enjoy the results. By the way, I am in no way affiliated with the sale or promotion of this product, just trying to save fellow enthusiasts from the agony of what is usually a long, painful restoration process.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 9:23 am 
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The seller is probably pretty isolated from the Australian manufacturer. The US distributor might be interested in your results too. You may be able to get an MSDS if you ask one of them, but I couldn't find one on the web.

http://www.californiacustom.com/contactus.html

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 1:07 pm 
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Good tip on using the steel wool in combination with this product.

Warning on using steel wool on aluminum - tiny steel particles can be imbedded in the aluminum surface and will show up later as tiny rust spots.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 1:43 pm 
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Maybe use stainless steel wool instead.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 2:01 pm 
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rotortech wrote:
Good tip on using the steel wool in combination with this product.

Warning on using steel wool on aluminum - tiny steel particles can be imbedded in the aluminum surface and will show up later as tiny rust spots.


After the scouring process you follow it up with the polish. By the time you polish, there's no remnants of steel wool left on the metal. I imbedded some steel wool in my skin more than a few times, and let me tell you, that's fun digging out those shards when you can't even see 'em.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 4:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:12 pm
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Jim wrote:
Maybe use stainless steel wool instead.


McMaster also has bronze wool which has worked well for me
Is this product so different from other aluminum cleaners?
I was thinking about automotive alum. wheel cleaning products

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 5:01 pm 
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I started to post about bronze wool, but then thought it might "write" on the aluminum. If you know it works without discoloring the metal, then that offers even more choice.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:38 pm 
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Location: Mount Vision, NY
How about using a good ole "Curly Kate" instead, or a 3M scrubby pad?

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