Kawi2strokes.com Forum

You had posted a photo on the old board of a blue tank that was painted with rattle can paint and then cleared with that 2-part aerosol you found. The photo looked like a pro HVLP job.

As I remember: standard prep; rattle cane primer and paint; paint did not have to go on wet; if metallic, no sanding after the last color coat; clear had to go on very wet; clear had a pot life of approx 4 hours

What's your experience been?
Does it hold up?
Any new tricks or photos to share?
Does the clear dry quickly; if there's a run or sag can you sand and re-coat with the same can of aersol?
TIA

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There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

Jim,

Let me make a comment about the two part clear aerosol I think you are talking about. I finished my RZ project just before Deals Gap this year. I had the body work done by a painter so I can't comment about aerosol paint for that-but for all the misc parts I did not have powder coated and the aluminum forks and aluminum foot peg mounting brackets that I polished and then clear coated with the two part aerosol-that aerosol worked great and so far has held up great. I had some concerns about it sticking to polished aluminum but so far so good. I even painted and cleared the wheels with the two part. The clear is sensitive to temperture and flowed out much better in warmer tempertures. I don't have a place to paint inside. I have to wait until the winter when the bugs are not out and then wait on a warm day which we have on occasions here. The clear worked well above 70 deg F but below that it didn't flow out well. I would warm the parts in my oven and warm the aerosol can in hot water before I moved outside to paint. When my first order of aerosol came in I noticed it came from a town near me so I stopped in there when I needed more. They told me the aerosol comes from Germany and they were the only ones in the US that imported it at the time.

You can find it here http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

I used it to cover PJ1 gloss engine paint which I used on the wheels and misc parts. I also used it to cover Duplicolor silver wheel paint which I used on the swing arm. I really like the PJ1 engine paint as it holds up well to chemicals and chipping. I also used the PJ1 on the brake parts. I had a leaking front master and the clear nor the PJ1 held up to the DOT 3 (but what does) which set on the paint over night befor I noticed the leaking master cap. From what I have seen the clear should work well on the body parts. It is a professional product so it is not cheap. It's performance I feel is only exceeded by a professional painter and their professional products.

The paint is not fast to cure, it can be sanded out if needed, although I did not polish the clear it can be cut and polished on the body parts just like non-aerosol. The paint has to be used in 24 hrs after activation.

I would also think it would work just as well on a Kawasaki as it does on a Yamaha

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1973 RD350, 1979 RD400F, 1984 RZ350, 2014 Suzuki Vstrom 1000
CHRIS AND JEFF ARE THE MEN

Thanks; very helpful; your wheels and aluminum parts look great.
Thought I'd bump this round 1 more time.

I'm concerend with how good a tank, side covers, and tail would look with standard harware store / Duplicolor aerosol unsanded paint, underneath a 2-part clear.

I have spent hours with rattle cans (both color and clear coat) trying to get a high gloss finish without orange peel.
Since we can't buy aerosol acrylic lacquer any longer (or gun paint for reasonable prices) I find myself not so skilled with painting.

Remember the days when you could buy Dupont lacquer for about $10 a quart, squirt it on and fix amy problems with wet sanding and rubbing / polishing compund?

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)

I don't know why Codys says not to sand metalics, I have done to all my metal flakes, and they turn out great. And I use duplicolor and wet sand it all, and you just buff out the urathane........ Done deal!

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

It must depend on what metallic paint you have. I've seen some that look terrible if you wet sand them.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Maybe if you are using bass boat flakes that are 1/4" square........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

Hey....easy...my first helmet in '72 had those and I liked it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-Arthur-Fulmer-gold-metalflake-motorcycle-helmet-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a123e85acQQitemZ180694713772QQptZApparelQ5fMerchandise


i think mine was like $30 new though

I think we all had "bass boat" flake helmets!

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

I had one like this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage- ... 4aacc9a190

Don

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Don

You can buy new ones that are DOT approved these days
Bell has reissued the 500 but these guys have the biggest flakes IMO

http://www.daytonahelmets.com/home/day/ ... flake.html

_________________
There are only two types of motor sport racing:
Nitro and everything else
(Sometimes referred to as fast and slow)