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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:23 pm
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Did anyone save the old thread on how to rebuild/restore the instruments (Speedo/tach) ? I remember there was some good tips on how to remove the top ring - I can't find it on TC's board.

Never mind - I found it on MRAXL, adding the link for anyone searching threads after me.

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/tips/meters/meterresto.htm

bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


Last edited by BarryB on Mon Jun 13, 2011 3:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:58 pm
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Location: Oslo
What model ?


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:53 pm 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
found it on Dales site - see above.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 9:50 am 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
Update:
Took it apart yesterday using MRAXL's instructions. Patience is not one of my strong points but I got the ring off without destroying it.

In my case the speedo was erratic after 40mph - it jumped around and legged back and forth - so I'm thinking I have a dampening problem. Dale mentions Dampening Grease but not the type. I have not cleaned the dampening unit yet. I don't know if this is really my issue anyway as the grease on the gears and such was pretty hard so I'm cleaning that and using a light silicone base first. I'll test with a drill and work through any other issues that may or may not be fixed in this first round.

Here's an excerpt from the instructions:
"Many times a meter will be non functional or "sticky" in operation. A small drop of WD40 on the needle shaft where it goes through a bushing will, many times, remedy that illness. When spinning the "bowl" of the movement with fingertip, it should return promptly to the stop while dampened near zero. The cylinder attached to the front plate that the needle shaft runs through is filled with a dampening grease to prevent overshoot and keep needle movement smooth. If this grease is flushed out with WD40 or any other chemical, dampening will be lost. The meter can be tested for proper operation by attaching a drive cable to a variable speed drill. The drill must be set to drive "reverse" or CCW".

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:03 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:36 am
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Location: Dandridge, TN, USA
Barry, my experience with the early type meters is limited.
In the later model meters, the bushing in the drive where the cable attaches is often where the low spd/rpm bounce is coming from. Examine and lubricate it first... WD40 or light machine oil.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 10:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 10:08 pm
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Location: Campbellville Ontario
I was fooling around with some H2 clocks a month ago and I was able to dial out some of the erratic needle behavior by adjusting the set screw on the external drive cable housing. There is a little ball-bearing that can provides tension against the shaft so the cable spin is less jumpy on quick acceleration. I tried to find a way to refill the needle shaft chamber with light grease -- no luck.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:10 am 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
I put it all back and tested with a drill - seems OK up to 60mph which is as fast as this drill will go. LOL - thinking about putting it on my variable speed pneumatic die-grinder and see how fast without blowing it up :mrgreen:

Z - I put a small dab of light grease on the bottom of the little ball bearing and cup you're talking about - the only place I used grease so far and very sparingly at that.

Dale, I did clean out the whole cable-attach assembly and hit it with a silicon spray.

So far everything looks good - I don't know how long the silicone will work compared to actual oil but I'm willing to try it.

I went silicon as I think 90% of the trouble was old "gumby" grease that hardened and the one gear is plastic - silicone seemed the best choice.

Time will tell.

Tachometer is next!
bb

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:25 am 
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The tach is much simpler.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:50 am 
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO. USA
mraxl wrote:
The tach is much simpler.


Good - cause I had to take it apart again as one of the stops for the trip meter was out of alignment and was sticking out of the face :oops:

I can't see how to zero out the total mileage without further disassembly - not that I care.

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 11:53 am 
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problem solved!......... :lol: :lol: :lol:

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