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Spoke torque setting
http://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=14833		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  magoo40 [ Wed Apr 12, 2023 8:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Spoke torque setting
I see posts about lacing wheels but i dont see any torque settings, except if using buchanan spokes (50"/lb).

I am about to start lacing my H2B mark IV 750 wheels with Steel spokes i decided to go with the steel spokes with gold nipples as per the originals instead of Stainless.

Does anyone know what the torque spes are?

Thanks.
Author:  RODH2 [ Wed Apr 12, 2023 11:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Spoke torque setting
How does a torque setting relate to individually tightening spokes to true the wheel rim? :think:
Author:  H2RTuner [ Thu Apr 13, 2023 7:23 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Spoke torque setting
Magoo, simply true the rim. When done, go back over each spoke, confirm all have tension. If not, thighten the loose ones, then retrue. Loose ones are ones you can still turn with your fingers, no tension at the rim.

Buchanon's are the only ones that have an arbitrary uniform starting torque. This gets all the Buchanon spokes to an equal starting point, true, final true from there. If done correctly, works with any spoke type.

Please also realize their spec is in INCH POUNDS, not foot pounds. Their "50 inch pounds" is roughly 4.17 foot pounds (not excessively over tight). Some of us have one torque wrench or the other, a handful have both. Being able to work either type wrench, with the correct value, is essential.

Go slow, and, all my friends and I used to have contests on whom of us could get a wheel trued as straight as possible. Hurley and I would always get them less than .005 true, except ag the weld, and cranks l had less than one half thousandth out. Most of the cranks we did were dead zero true.

Truing, what fun, go slow, it is well worth getting them as true as possibly.
Author:  magoo40 [ Thu Apr 13, 2023 4:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Spoke torque setting
RODH2 wrote:
How does a torque setting relate to individually tightening spokes to true the wheel rim? :think:


After trueing the wheel, all spokes need to be tight because it is possible to have a true wheel with some spokes not "tight".

The tightness value of the spokes is what I was after.
Author:  magoo40 [ Thu Apr 13, 2023 4:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Spoke torque setting
H2RTuner wrote:
Magoo, simply true the rim. When done, go back over each spoke, confirm all have tension. If not, thighten the loose ones, then retrue. Loose ones are ones you can still turn with your fingers, no tension at the rim.

Buchanon's are the only ones that have an arbitrary uniform starting torque. This gets all the Buchanon spokes to an equal starting point, true, final true from there. If done correctly, works with any spoke type.

Please also realize their spec is in INCH POUNDS, not foot pounds. Their "50 inch pounds" is roughly 4.17 foot pounds (not excessively over tight). Some of us have one torque wrench or the other, a handful have both. Being able to work either type wrench, with the correct value, is essential.

Go slow, and, all my friends and I used to have contests on whom of us could get a wheel trued as straight as possible. Hurley and I would always get them less than .005 true, except ag the weld, and cranks l had less than one half thousandth out. Most of the cranks we did were dead zero true.

Truing, what fun, go slow, it is well worth getting them as true as possibly.


Thanks for the tips, I know the Buchanon spokes are inch pound which is 5.6Nm in the rest of the world, my wrench has both scales. Are you saying that Buchanon recommend starting at a torque value for the spokes and then start trueing the wheel? I am a machinist by trade if you can true a wheel to 5/1000 then you are doing very well I bet that took some time. Thanks again for the Tips.
Author:  H2RTuner [ Fri Apr 14, 2023 8:02 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Spoke torque setting
Buchanon spokes are "different". They use an arbitrary setting to ensure no spokes end up with no torque tightness. It is only a starting point.

Yes, some wheels, extruded ones, have excellent weld joint areas, and incredibly precise straightness. Our.olddr steel wheels aren't like that, nice for most of the rim, then joined with Silly Putty with a caulking gun.

Yes, Hurley and I, along with Jeff Bratton, used to have a standing friendly competition on whom could get wheels, crankshafts and other 'alignment' pressed parts as close to 'dead true' as possible. One procedure for cranks is to hit them with a lead hammer to move one wheel on the pin. Not so good. So, I built 3 fixtures the same, to hold the crank, to press the crank on the pin. Much better, nicer than whacking the parts into "close, but no real cigar" place.

Wheels, we 3 used dial indicators, not dead set pointers. Just the way we did/do this stuff.

Another friendly competition I had with my best friend, Terrance, was going down to our friend's (movie stunt man Bud Ekins) bike dealership/shop on some Saturdays, and do customer tire changes. Winner got a free lunch. The mechanics would pull the wheels, we'd do the changes, balance, they'put the wheels back on the bikes. We didn't do that regularly, there were 'shooting schedules' and other things to work around. BTW, you knew my friend Terrance, by his "stage name"...... Steve.....McQueen, former motorcycle mechanic in a bike shop. Yes, THAT Steve McQueen, my best friend. I never did buy many lunches.
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