Kawi2strokes.com Forum

It's quite a bit lighter without the cylinders on it.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Got it out just fine. But it was a bit heavier than I expected. I had to grunt to get it off the floor and onto the bench.
Also found this little gem while taking it apart.

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Doug
1977 Kawasaki KZ650 being restored
1968 Honda CB450 Hellcat restored
1981 KZ440C recently restored
1974 H1E Restored and sold
2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650
2012 Polaris Sportsman
5 Good Months of Riding in my part of Canada

Reading on another website it appears oil in the crankcase can give you higher compression readings. Engine is out of the bike but I just tipped it over and I had oil come out of 2 cylinders before I tipped it back because so much was coming out. Hhhuummm I wonder. The nest in the air filter couldn't have helped.

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Doug
1977 Kawasaki KZ650 being restored
1968 Honda CB450 Hellcat restored
1981 KZ440C recently restored
1974 H1E Restored and sold
2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650
2012 Polaris Sportsman
5 Good Months of Riding in my part of Canada

Oil in the crankcase chambers won't change the compression readings, but if/when that oil gets pumped into the combustion chambers it can. It doesn't take much up there to cause hydrolock and bent rods.

Obviously your oil line check valves are not sealing, so they need attention. Again... information about them is on the resource site.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

I've read on cleaning and reseating the check valves. Since the bike sat in a Ccan, unstarted, for over 15 years, it wouldn't take a very big leak to eventually drain the oil tank. But then again, I don't know if the tank drained over 15 years or in the first year. Cleaning and testing the valves is a priority.

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Doug
1977 Kawasaki KZ650 being restored
1968 Honda CB450 Hellcat restored
1981 KZ440C recently restored
1974 H1E Restored and sold
2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650
2012 Polaris Sportsman
5 Good Months of Riding in my part of Canada

The tag on my headstock appears to have a manufacture date of 7-73. It also says it's an H1F. What do you guys think?
Also, for when I go to paint it. Some site seem to lead that there were three colours in the H1F. Candy Sky Blue, Candy Yellow (Brown yuk) but some also say Candy Lime Green. Is there any way of determining the original colour from the serial number?

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Doug
1977 Kawasaki KZ650 being restored
1968 Honda CB450 Hellcat restored
1981 KZ440C recently restored
1974 H1E Restored and sold
2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650
2012 Polaris Sportsman
5 Good Months of Riding in my part of Canada

You have an H1D. The "F" in the serial means "Frame" number... just like the "E" on the engine means "Engine" number.
http://kawatriple.com/serialno.html

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Well that changes everything..... actually it only changes the colour I will paint it. Thanks for the clarification.

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Doug
1977 Kawasaki KZ650 being restored
1968 Honda CB450 Hellcat restored
1981 KZ440C recently restored
1974 H1E Restored and sold
2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650
2012 Polaris Sportsman
5 Good Months of Riding in my part of Canada

It actually changes a lot!
Ignition is different, motor mounts, engine case, badges, tank cap, cylinder design, exhaust....

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

You are right, when reordering parts it can make a big difference. While researching parts I need now, most online menus show H1 D,E F all with the same part numbers.....so far.
Colours and badging are minor but engine/ignition differences could be serious.
I'm really glad I posted this (and you relpied) before buying anything major.

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Doug
1977 Kawasaki KZ650 being restored
1968 Honda CB450 Hellcat restored
1981 KZ440C recently restored
1974 H1E Restored and sold
2015 Kawasaki Vulcan S 650
2012 Polaris Sportsman
5 Good Months of Riding in my part of Canada