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World traveler H2B rebuild
http://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=12577
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Author:  Stev-o [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

DGA wrote:
I put the front turn signals on that I have, mainly to mount the headlight... but they just look so stuck out awful I can't leave them there, original or not..


Let me know if you want to sell them. Thanks

Author:  DGA [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:20 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

They are far from perfect, a few blisters in the chrome, the inside parts need replating, the lenses are decent, no cracks etc. I only have the two of them.

Author:  DGA [ Sun Apr 16, 2017 9:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

I CNC machined some turn signal adapters, to be able to use 10mm stud type signals. Or these could be used if I just wanted to use bolts to mount the headlight.

Author:  Stev-o [ Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:50 am ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

DGA wrote:
They are far from perfect, a few blisters in the chrome, the inside parts need replating, the lenses are decent, no cracks etc. I only have the two of them.


Will check the cond of mine and contact you if needed. Thanks

Author:  DGA [ Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

Got most of the wiring done. I had an adjustable solid state flasher so I tried that, and with an added ground, they flash, yay. Some of the harness colours did not match, the three coil power wires in my harness are red, the diagram says white. I had no labels on the CDI boxes so had to pull that up and mark them with coloured tywraps. I don't know if it has spark, not really at a point to be able to kick it over. The headlight and lights all work. I don't know what the second light switch setting is for on the RH hand switch. The neutral light does not light up for some reason. I got the tail light mount and a new lens done, someone had decided to cut the old tail light lens short, guess they didn't like how far out the back it stuck.

Author:  DGA [ Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

Got the front turn signals mounted, had to bore some 10mm studs out to fit the wires through, worked out ok. Headlight put in after completing the wiring. The high beam light does not go, nor did the neutral, but by grounding the neutral wire it does light up so the problem is likely the brass tab onto the shift drum. I had an '80 KZ750 front fender laying around so tried that, and gee, it's a direct bolt on, and might even look better. I will get the right one at some point when I have more cash to shovel into this bike, but I have to buy the head pipe bends, the expansion chamber sheet and the mufflers next.

Author:  Stev-o [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:37 am ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

Fender looks good. I bought a nice one recently, not cheap!

What rubber are you thinking of going with?

Author:  DGA [ Fri Apr 28, 2017 3:34 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

I have a Battlax BT45 for the rear, and a Shinko 712 for the front. Have not put them on because I need to simulate compressed suspension in corners, for checking pipe clearance, when I build those.

Author:  DGA [ Sun Apr 30, 2017 6:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

I got the carbs synched, well I hope I did. One of the throttle lower cables is marginally too short compared to the other two and I had to bottom everything out to get it closed enough, to what I hope is a decent idle. I could not get cable slack in that one, the other two are adjusted up about 6mm to match. Have the 1 into 4 housing mounted with a rubber lined P clamp onto a coil mount. Put the chain on, a 120 link is JUST long enough to reach on an H2B/C, with a 16 front sprocket. Torqued the front sprocket on with blue Loctite to 80 ft/ lbs.

Author:  DGA [ Sun May 07, 2017 8:30 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: World traveler H2B rebuild

I modified the crankcase oil banjo bolts. My 1 into 3 H2B oil line has dead check valves; the balls are stuck open or more likely, the springs are dead. I tried everything to disassemble them and no luck, and I'm not willing to destroy the line. So I drilled the brass jets out of the bottom of the bolts, tapped the end 5 x .8mm and put the check balls and springs in there. A #30 small round head Mikuni jet has the same .020" orfice size, and is small enough to pass inside the 8mm thread. These are now serviceable, easily. Note that this won't work on an H2/A that has oil into the carb inlets.
Details on the banjo bolt modifications.
Case banjo bolts
Drill #30, .750” deep
Drill #19, .475” deep
Tap M5x.8mm 3/8” deep for small head round Mikuni jets
Use a #30 jet
Use .156” Stainless balls
.116” x .500” springs
You can put a ball in the hole and give it a light punch with a pin punch to make the seat smooth after drilling.The banjo hole is deep enough for the added length of the jet ok. It does not take much preload on the spring to get 4 psi. I ordered the balls and springs from McMaster.com, I love that place.

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