Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Does anyone have some tips for removing the round head phillips engine case screws that want to strip before they break free? These are the ones in the recessed areas that you can't get to with vice grips. Beyond drilling them out, I've used valve grinding compound to increase the bite of the screwdriver. Any other suggestions?

Use an impact screwdriver.

Not necessarily this one, but this type, and I'd get the 1/2" drive version: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-8-In ... B000NPPATS

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

What Jim said. But it's also important to break out the impact as soon as you see that it's not coming out with the screw driver. Don't give yourself a chance to chew it up, the impact bit still needs something to bite into.

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We don't need no stinkin' Cams!

Thanks guys.
I have an impact driver and so far I've stripped two screws that were not compromised before I used it on them. These screws seem to be very soft. Probably some cheap knockoff screws.

Grind heads off with Dremel tool, remove cover, use Vise-Grips to remove screws.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Use a real JIS screwdriver, they fit so much better than a Phillips.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.

Sometimes it pays to just walk away for a day or two. Today, all those stubborn screws let lose with repeated whacks from the impact driver. The reason I am going exploring in the engine case is that the clutch slips and the shifter doesn't feel right. I get a good positive down shift but upshifts have no positive feel at the shifter. It almost feels like the shifter isn't moving but it still upshifts. Just doesn't feel normal. I found quite a bit of metal. Lots of metal particles in the oil and metal strips lodged in the case. Has anyone seen this before?

Just removed the clutch assembly.
I count 7 metal plates, 7 clutch plates and 7 wave washers. One wave washer looked to be incorrectly located against a metal plate which might explain some of the clutch slippage?

I kind of doubt if that's why the clutch slipped. They're prone to slipping in the stock configuration anyway. But those chunks of metal are bad news. They mean you need to take the case apart to see where they came from, and what damage they may have caused. Has the crank been rebuilt?

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Crank has not been rebuilt yet Jim but I plan to. I'll get the engine on the bench and the cases split in the not too distant future. I'll post my findings when I get it apart.