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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:10 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
I don't have a correct centerstand for a 1970, the one which came with my bike, is from a a later version. And besides I don't intend to mount the centerstand anyway.

But, the takeaway here, IMO is: Do you want a tire which gives you, say 10-15% more adherence , but when it loses grip a does that suddenly, or do you want a tire with maybe 15 less grip, but which starts slipping a bit sometime before it loses grip completely, and it that sense, kinda gives you a warning.

Or can you have both ?

Seems as the K81 / TT100 belongs in the first category...

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 7:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
I am pretty sure any modern tyre will outperform anything you can do with a H1 Kawasaki. Back in the day we production raced a H1, and at the time, against all advice, we used Bridgestone and Yokohama tyres with a fair degree of success. I wouldn't be concerned about using any of the current tyre available. I won a couple of races on 1971 model Yokohama "World Tour" tyres, and those things were NOT "soft compound".....I am not sure they were even rubber!! :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
One thing not taken into consideration, is riding style. The old style uppie-downie riding style ends up with a lot more lean angle that the more modern hanging off style. Which makes a very big difference in cornering traction and foot print.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 3:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:02 am
Posts: 95
Location: Helensburgh Australia
Just my 2 cents, the most impotant tyre is the front, so I've always put a race compound on the front for good grip and a touring/standard compound on the rear.

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Cheers Baz.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”

1973 H2-A
2000 F650GS BMW


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:02 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
BazNSW wrote:
Just my 2 cents, the most impotant tyre is the front, so I've always put a race compound on the front for good grip and a touring/standard compound on the rear.

Good point, Baz, your'e right :)

As i remember it, my trackday Ducati was set up that way too, regardless of whether I used Pirelli Dragon, Metzeler or Dunlop Sportmax

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:34 pm
Posts: 9826
Location: North Central NC
I don't know Baz, that sounds like a possible recipe for a high side. If it works for you, no problem, it just came to mind that having less traction on the rear than the front could be a problem for some people (like me).

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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:54 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
As described here http://www.kawi2strokes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=12436&p=124780#p124780 I was relieved to learn that petcock performance is sufficient:
Image

Luckily, I'm not doing this for a living, cuz' I would have starved to death :D

Time to give the ignition system some attention:

When I got the bike - back in 2007, it still had the original Diamond TU-29 coils. I've kept them of course, but I have bought 3 new ones, which are now fitted.

The main components, except from coils, HT cords and caps, can be seen here:
Image

The wiring harness was in good condition, apart from the outher protection tube, which I of course renewed. Pretty ackward job!
Image

I Also renewed the contact breaker points and the condensers, which are in fact the same as on a H1B.

Carbon brush and holder looked OK after a cleaning, and there was plenty of carbon left.
Rotor was cleaned carefully, by hand and inspected. As it looked OK with no scars or broken wires (judging from a visual inspect only) it was re-fitted.

The central cam actuating the 3 breaker points looked to be in very good condition for it's age. With a micrometer screw, I measeured the differences in diameter around the cam to be approx. 0.05 mm, so it will be slightly polished by hand, and then reused.
The whole assembly looks very "busy":
Image

Some screws still in need of replacement.
But apart from this, I'm ready to start doing the ignition timing for the very first time :o
Luckily I've got this one to help me:
Image
+ plus some audio device to indicate when points begings to open.

But still a very tedious task, I guess

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2017 9:12 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:02 am
Posts: 95
Location: Helensburgh Australia
That is some nice work mate :thumbup:

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Cheers Baz.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”

1973 H2-A
2000 F650GS BMW


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:41 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Thanks Baz :)

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2017 11:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:37 am
Posts: 10460
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
BazNSW wrote:
Just my 2 cents, the most impotant tyre is the front, so I've always put a race compound on the front for good grip and a touring/standard compound on the rear.


I don't know about all race tires, but the Avon and Dunlop vintage racing tires require a warm up lap, and require racing speeds to get to a temp of good traction. Which is not really good on the street. Imho. I know when i was racing, I had to be judicial as the tires were a bit greasy until up to temp.

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........


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