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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:16 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Thanks Gregz - update will follow during this weekend, as lotsa things are happening right now :D

Yep its my trusted Alfa 2000 Spider Veloce lurking in the background. Actually a Sacramento car exported to Denmark in beging of 1990-ties and completely restored in Denmark (not by me)
Born with the infamous Spica mechanical injection, but now build back to Euro-specs (= 2 X double barrel Weber carburettors)

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 3:46 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Wiring:

I was very much in doubt here. Wiring on old bikes has almost always been tampered with, and if repairs have been made, they are rarely made the right way = soldering the connectors to the wires. And so on ...

There are complete main harnesses to be had on Ebay, Diablo Cycles and similar. Prices vary, but I never came to decide which one to buy, and most likely these would not have the additional wiring for city light, and for 3 the seperate ignition coils. Mine is a Euro model, meaning that it has both these 2 features.
With a brand new harness, I would be home safe, and could stay clear of electrical trouble, but for me restoring is also about preserving as much of the bikes soul as possible. Sounds damn romantic here, but it's true.

After a close examination and comparison with the wiring diagram for a Euro model, I concluded that apart from a lot of dirt and grease, a few broken wires, and some additional strange wiring including an extra fuse holder:
Image


... my harness was in good shape, and very original. It even still had the small numbering labes on it.
Long story short, i marked it up, removed the protection tube (which was torn anyway):
Image

Image

cleaned each individual wire, checked the connectors and learned myself how to solder new ones to replace missing ones.
BEFORE:
Image

AFTER:
Image
and last one:
Image

Wiring for the Speedo- and Tacho lights were missing however, so I had to source these on Ebay. Its getting pretty crowded in the Head lamp body:
Image

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2016 6:02 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Now its time to start taking the carbs apart:

Image

Hmm, just as expected the bowls were filled with lotsa reddish stuff, and it looked like it was way back since they had been cleaned... if they ever had:

Image

Before cleaning can start, be sure to get rid of all traces of gaskets, and remove the all pilot jets, air screws, idling screws (take care not to loosen the springs and washers) and last but not least, remove the main jet tube, by unscrewing the main jet and removing the special washer btw. Main jet and Needle jet. The Needle jet can be tricky to remove, but tap on it lightly using a mandrel of as large a size as possible.
Don't get too alarmed by the look of the Needle jet, after it has been removed, you will probably want to replace it anyway together with the Needle. (More on this topic later)

It might be a good idea, to write down each individual carbs settings while going along...

Before just sinking each carb into my ultrasonic cleaner, they are allowed a nice long bath in diesel oil:
Image
... each carb have now been completely dismantled, and care is taken not to mix up the individual parts.
After a couple of weeks much of the dirt an "gum" have loosened. After a brief cleaning, I can pour them into my ultrasonic cleaner - one at a time. But first some words of caution:

Carburettors are made of some light alloy, and all the small drillings, holes and vents are delicate stuff. This is why
- I note / write down / take picture of all the small brass plugs in each carb. They are know to work loose during cleaning, so be very careful when you remove the carbs after
cleaning, and use a filter when draining used water from the cleaner.
- I pour them into diesel oil first, to avoid having them in the ultrasonic cleaner for too long
- I dont use anything like strong detergents. I've heard of someone using dishwasher soap :banghead This is very agressive to light alloy, so I advise that you don't.
- I use hot water with only some mild soap added, or you can add a small amount of the the type of cleaner, that painters use to clean the wooden parts before sanding/painting.


I applied about 85% power (max power = 240 W) for 20 mins in my cleaner. It can easily hold two carbs at a time (capacity 10 Litres), but again, avoid to mix up the parts, so I did 3 runs.

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2016 5:30 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
... but of course, I managed to lose one of the plugs during ultrasonic cleaning. This one:

Image
(picture taken before cleaning :) )
so I spent some days looking for shops where to buy some brass rods in approximately the right diameter. Incrediblew hat you can buy on the net today. A piece of correct lenght was cut out, ends grinded smooth, and i was almost a press fit, but I added some 2-component "Alraldit" glue as well. Epoxy based stuff :twisted: but better safe than sorry.

Checking the float level:
Image
- one float had a dent, but to be sure, I replaced all three.

I wanted to use as few Keyster or Sudco parts as possible, and as many original Mikuni, but this is no easy task, as many of the original Mikuni parts (easily recognizable by the small logo) are no longer available.
Main jets, needle jets etc. can be found as original parts, but the tricky bits are the jet needle and the needle jet. To my luck there is this great company in Sweden, my neighbour country:
http://www.braigasen.se/ The company name can possibly be translated to "good throttle response" or similar :)
The owner was very paitient, as it took quite a number of E-mails before I understood exactly what was possible / not possible.

A 1970 Euro H1 should originally have a 5EH7 Jet needles in a 194 #O-2 Needle jet, if its to be in standard configuration. The 5EH7 needles was obtainable on Fleabay, but the 194 is not in Mikuni's stock any more, so Christer eventually
modified a 159-O2 needles like this:
1. Shortened the overall lenght of the Needle jet by 2mm
2. Lowered the shield to 2.4mm
3. Drilled and made new thread in the needle in order to accept Jet N100.604

Its important that both the Jet needle and the Needle jets are corresponding, and that both are renewed during a resto, as these parts will wear over time, due to the needle sliding up and down (most UP, i guess :lol: ) inside the the Needle jet.

Additionally, Christer also supplied the neccessary gaskets, float valves etc. Nice work!


Almost finished (apart from float chamber screws):
Image

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2016 3:42 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Finished:
Image

Image

However, I will need 1 new (or 3 new) clamps for the rubber tubes, as one in the middle is close to breaking. Have ordered replacement parts from Diablo, but I would have preferred the original ones, of course. But let's see how it looks when they part arrive...

The Air box canister looks too shiny ??? But it was like that when I bought the bike back in 2003.

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2016 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
Very neatly done! It does bring home the age of the Triples, that assembly would be a 2-piece clip together plastic moulding these days!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 3:52 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Exactly :lol: :lol:

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 3:18 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
With my wishes for a happy and prosperous 2017 for everyone here on this forum, I'm kicking this thread to life one again ;)

This little gem came to me, in cold Scandinavia, all the way from Southern Italy - and it worked:
Image
... probably in need of a complete strip-down / rebuild, and the chrome ring is wrong, but at least it's for a H1, unlike the one which came with bike.
Wrapping was excellent, by the way: An used tobacco can equipped with a warning sticker stating that smoking kills you, in Italian writing. Very fitting for Kawa tripple parts, I think :D

Image

Image
... Now I have one speedo which works, but in need of rebuild, and missing the reset knob + two rev counters and some repro dials. It time
to send everything to Northern Sweden, where one of the very last companies, making instrument refurbishing lives...

Btw. I managed to find the reset knob on Fleabay, too:
Image

I'll get back to the Speedo and Rev counter when they are back from the shop. Might take a while

QUESTION: Does this part belong to a H1:
Image

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 3:59 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Yep - it's the bracket which supports the coil for the mid cylinder.
The 2 holes are for attaching the clamp for the coil. Due to the weight of the coil and the vibrations, the bracket had cracked all way through the holes, from edge to egde. A new one is virtually unobtainable, so I had the bracing done. It will not be seen as it's located at side facing downwards.

Next pics shows coil + bracket and their location in frame:
Image
- now I will be able to finish off the wiring loom and make some tests!

And now to something more colourful!
The paint shop has finished the work:

Image

Image

Image
... Nice, isn't it ;)

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 7:03 am
Posts: 4604
Location: Milang, South Australia
Well, I am/was a spray-painter by trade, and I had a NEW red H1......my heart skipped a beat when I saw that tank, memories came flooding back! (have you done the front brake yet? :shock: ) That paint job is better than anything the factory did, it WAS 1970, after all, but this is a special kind of re-build. I feel like throwing all my H2 stuff back into the corner of the Garage!! Great thread! :thumbup:

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.


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