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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 3:18 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
porschedave wrote:
The bike is going to be fantastic!
Can I suggest checking to see if the paint
Has created a thickness to the surface
That seals are going? Sometimes paint or chrome can
Interfere?


Thanks Dave :) You mean, I should check if there is paint inside the hole where the Oil Seal is going ?

I have looked carefully, and it doesn't look that way. Painter knows a lot about bikes, and the is usually very careful about masking off.
But I can't be 100% sure, of course.

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2017 2:19 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
23 days since last post :o
I can only say for myself that I was hit by life itself - you know: Work, family, helping my a friend with his bike, Brexit, and all sort of things. So not much have happend. And still:

Last time I grumbled about the oil-seal for the gear change axle being too big, and I had binned the seals, and ordered new OEM parts from France.
And as expected, the new seals was a nice fit. Thanks Patrick.
So what did I learn: Use OEM parts where you can get them ;)

Gear for pump and tacho was already finished last time I posted, but clutch cover is still not fitted, as I'm waiting for a NOS clutch basket to arrive from US. Hopefully this will cure the loose basket.

In the meantime I had time to assembly the kick starter:
Image

The boss and the arm are not the rigtht one for a 1970 (I've got the right boss) but the arm which came with the bike, broke close to where it's attached to the boss.
Quite frankly, I don't care.

I was not happy with the exterior finish of tacho and revcounter, when they came back from the specialist shop, so I had them re-finished:

Image
Still NOT perfect, but I'll guess I'll have to live with it ... which I will :D

Have used lots of, lots of time on getting the cabling right. Apart from tacho- and speedo cables, were the cable lenght are independent of choise of handlebar, the other cables needed some creative thinking to be done when you want to stick to an Euro type handlebar. But I'm very satisfied with the result now:
Image

Start to look a little like something.

And not to forget: After hours of work, double checking and so on, all 3 plugs throw a fat healthy looking spark, when I kicked the starter.
But I got so fed up by the sound of my buzzer, that I made myself a lamp instead.
You have to learn - do doing - just HOW small tabs it takes to get the timing right, especially for no. 2 and 3 cyl.
Hopefully next time will be a little easier, now the the timing is "tuned in"

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 1:23 pm 

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:04 am
Posts: 57
Location: Central MN. USA
H-Nube,
On your covers that were "too scratched to polish out", I had what I would call a normal amount of scratches and dings on my cases. I used a 1" x 30" bench mount sander to first sand down the affected areas, being careful not over sand, but still not concentrate on too small an area and causing a flat spot on so many curves and radiuses! Then I fired up my palm sander. I used 220, 400, 600, 1000 and finally 1500 grit wet or dry sand paper to then sand out the scratches. I used an Eco-friendly Parts (non-flamable) washer fluid as my "wet" and sparingly applied it to the pieces as I sanded them with a wetted parts washer brush. It seemed to lubicate it well and I would occasionally hold my sander over the parts washer and brush the build-up off or the sanding surface and shake off the excess.
I applied masking tape to the underside ends of the sandpaper where they curved around the edge of the clamping devices to strengthen those areas, so they didn't tear away prematurely (don't ask how I know was an issue! :banghead We all learn from trial and error.) Anyway, by stepping up the grit range it went pretty well and I think you'd have to look REALLY hard to see any flat-spotting on the case surfaces. YMMV and your desire my be different than mine. I've posted this before, but it applies here as well.
Image
4 Dog


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2017 8:40 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:02 am
Posts: 95
Location: Helensburgh Australia
900SL wrote:
23 days since last post :o
I can only say for myself that I was hit by life itself - you know: Work, family, helping my a friend with his bike, Brexit, and all sort of things. So not much have happend. And still:

Last time I grumbled about the oil-seal for the gear change axle being too big, and I had binned the seals, and ordered new OEM parts from France.
And as expected, the new seals was a nice fit. Thanks Patrick.
So what did I learn: Use OEM parts where you can get them ;)

Gear for pump and tacho was already finished last time I posted, but clutch cover is still not fitted, as I'm waiting for a NOS clutch basket to arrive from US. Hopefully this will cure the loose basket.

In the meantime I had time to assembly the kick starter:
Image

The boss and the arm are not the rigtht one for a 1970 (I've got the right boss) but the arm which came with the bike, broke close to where it's attached to the boss.
Quite frankly, I don't care.

I was not happy with the exterior finish of tacho and revcounter, when they came back from the specialist shop, so I had them re-finished:

Image
Still NOT perfect, but I'll guess I'll have to live with it ... which I will :D

Have used lots of, lots of time on getting the cabling right. Apart from tacho- and speedo cables, were the cable lenght are independent of choise of handlebar, the other cables needed some creative thinking to be done when you want to stick to an Euro type handlebar. But I'm very satisfied with the result now:
Image

Start to look a little like something.

And not to forget: After hours of work, double checking and so on, all 3 plugs throw a fat healthy looking spark, when I kicked the starter.
But I got so fed up by the sound of my buzzer, that I made myself a lamp instead.
You have to learn - do doing - just HOW small tabs it takes to get the timing right, especially for no. 2 and 3 cyl.
Hopefully next time will be a little easier, now the the timing is "tuned in"


Looking good mate, my Kick start broke in the same spot also, looking at yours it was repaired alot better than mine was, amazing how similar the H2 kick starter is to the early H1, apart from the cotter pin it's looks identical(H2 pin is countersunk to fit flush)

_________________
Cheers Baz.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”

1973 H2-A
2000 F650GS BMW


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 10:04 am 

Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:28 pm
Posts: 194
Location: West Coast
The polished parts look excellent just like the rest of the bike. My stuff was too far gone but I didn't want to throw them out. The paint looks ok but not like your polished goodies.


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2017 2:53 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Thanks guys - really appreciated

@ 4 dog: Yep - if you know HOW to do when sanding down - avoiding flat spots by continously moving the sander and so on, and all these tricks (and you sure seems to know) you can get a very very good result. But few people does, i think.
Many years ago I financed my education working with very expensive hand-made pipes (for smoking) So even if the material is different, i'm a somewhat familiar with how NOT to spoil things while sanding, but quite frankly, it didn't occur to me, that I could sand them. But again, the scratches were few and concentrated to certain places.
But I don't think I would have dared undertaking a project like you did. Very impressive!


@BazNSW: The kick start arm which came with bike still looks like this:
Image

The nice one I showed, is one I bought from R.B back in 2007 when I got the bike. I just took it apart and had it rechromed :D

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2017 3:24 am 
User avatar

Joined: Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:06 am
Posts: 4364
Location: PARIS FRANCE
900SL wrote:
Thanks guys - really appreciated




@BazNSW: The kick start arm which came with bike still looks like this:
Image

T :D

remzember me something with a nice dent when it broke on the right exhaust :D


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 3:57 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
FINALLY - after being more or less in limbo since mid february, my NOS clutch basket arrived last week in Malmø, Sweden.

:clap: :clap: :clap:

As engine has been mounted in frame since long ago, I had to borrow a Van from a friend and load the un-finished bike into it. Once again a nice ride to Sweden, crossing the water btw. Denmark and Sweden. This involves riding through a 2,5 miles tunnel:

Image

+ crossing a 4,9 miles long bridge:

Image

Image

Well arrived in Malmø, famous swedish Kawasaki Triples wizard Ebbe Parnestål immediately starts working on swapping the cluth basket, + adjusting springs and clutch-releaser:
ImageImage

The result of a genuine craftsmans work in 20-25 minutes: An as-new clutch with no rattle, and a clutch lever which can be actuated with a fairly normal pressure. Ebbe has mounted slightly stiffer-than-original springs.

And then, all left for me, is a smooth and easy - 50 miles ride back to Denmark.

Found out that my front forks are leaking from the small drain screws below. New screws and gaskets were already fitted, but I'll have to work it over once more :twisted:
Almost dropped the bike, when pushing it back into the garage, but I grapped it. Phew :oops:

More to follow soon - stay tuned.

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 5:44 pm 

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 10:52 pm
Posts: 1222
Location: South Dakota
Your bike looks fantastic Sir! I had a problem with the little drain screws leaking on the S1C I restored. I changed the little gaskets twice(both times with NOS gaskets)and they still leaked, especially when I cinched it down to take back to the owner, it wasn't pretty. I drained the oil for the third time, installed yet another set of NOS little black rubber thingys and used blue lock-tight on the drain screws and now they don't leak. I think I may have over-tightened the first three sets and distorted them some so I didn't tighten the last ones much at all.

_________________
1969 H1, 1971 G3SSA, 1974 G5, 1973 H2A, 1975 S3A, 1975 H1F, 1973 Z1, 1988 HD FLTC, Captain America chopper, 2000 Excelsior Henderson, 1965 Bridgestone BS90


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 6:41 pm 
User avatar

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:02 am
Posts: 95
Location: Helensburgh Australia
WOW just a lovely looking bike!!

_________________
Cheers Baz.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”

1973 H2-A
2000 F650GS BMW


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