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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:59 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
I promised more updates this weekend, but spent some time instead with wife watching the "LA LA Land" movie and helping a good friend with his Ducati. Actually cleaning the Mikuni carbs (tastes a little bit like Kawasaki)

Anyway - my paint shop finally finished the engine covers, and I picked them up thursday evening after a long cosy chat with the Master himself. And the result:

Image

Image

More pics to follow... but definately worth waiting for, don't you think.
We ended up talking about the colors the used. So for what its worth, here they are:

First, the silver paint used for engine covers:
Image
"Moondust Silver Metallic" its called. It's an original FORD color.

Then the red color:
Image
You've seen the result earlier in this thread 8-)

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:25 pm 

Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:04 am
Posts: 57
Location: Central MN. USA
Gee...and I was going to suggest a chrome rim strip! Foiled again! You guys are too quick n' too smart!


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:38 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
4 Dog knight wrote:
Gee...and I was going to suggest a chrome rim strip! Foiled again! You guys are too quick n' too smart!

:D :D

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2017 6:02 am
Posts: 95
Location: Helensburgh Australia
900SL wrote:
4 Dog knight wrote:
Gee...and I was going to suggest a chrome rim strip! Foiled again! You guys are too quick n' too smart!

:D :D



Nice, very very nice, better than factory, how many coats of the grey metalic colour were there and was there a clear coat to finish it, I'm assuming you didn't use the full 2 litre tin painting the engine bits.

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Cheers Baz.
“I refuse to answer that question on the grounds that I don't know the answer”

1973 H2-A
2000 F650GS BMW


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 2:27 am 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
Thanks Baz, I'll pass the words of appraisal to the painter :D

Quite frankly, I'm not sure off how many layers he applied. I assume he finished off with a clear coat layer - he usually does. I forgot to ask :oops: :oops:

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Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2017 5:21 pm 

Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 4:31 am
Posts: 164
Location: North of Copenhagen, Denmark, Europe
All the engine covers together:
Image

The clutch cover is the one which requires all work after it has returned from painter. As you can see, I'm already started to insert new oil seals into the clutch cover:
Image

At the rear is the aluminium plug used for blinding the hole for the rotor, as this is not used on an Euro model. The casting for the clutch cover is the same, so an oil seal plus the alu plug must be inserted and secured with a circlip from the rear:
Image

Oil seal for kick start axle was easy, and so was the small seal for the tacho drive axle. But of course the one for the gear change mechanism was 0,5 mm LARGER than the hole in clutchcover :banghead
I have experienced this quite often with non OEM parts. After a few tries with gently heating the cover, I binned the seals, and now I have ordered new OEM parts from France.
This seal is 12-20-5 mm I think, and for the fun of it, I actually found 2 original Piaggio here in Denmark, which I instantly bought, as they were cheap. They probably come from a Vespa :lol:
So now i have at least 2 more shots ...

Inside the clutch cover there are the drive for the tacho and the oil pump:
Image

You will need an extra hand to prevent the axle from rotation while you punch in the small cotter pin which secures the white plastic wheel. I changed this plastic wheel, as the hub looked a little out-of-shape. Other wise just a cleaning of all bits, and ensuring that cotter pin is able to hold.

Do REMEMBER to place the thrust washer underneath each of the two wheels:
Image

and change the O-rings too. Then you should be home free :)

_________________
Peter says:
Keep the revs up !

Bikes:
H1 Candy Red, 1970
Moto Guzzi Daytona 1000, 1992


Last edited by 900SL on Thu Mar 09, 2017 3:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 9:50 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:43 pm
Posts: 561
The bike is going to be fantastic!
Can I suggest checking to see if the paint
Has created a thickness to the surface
That seals are going? Sometimes paint or chrome can
Interfere?

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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 12:41 pm 

Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:28 pm
Posts: 194
Location: West Coast
I also have to paint my covers because they were in such bad shape that I couldn't just polish them out. I am inspired by your results. Waiting for warmer weather to paint now. This is a great way to fix damaged covers that otherwise would be chucked aside. Mine had deep pits and corrosion that I JB welded and now they are primed and awaiting the weather. Thanks for the pix.


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2011 12:43 pm
Posts: 561
Be sure you use a paint or clear
That can handle oil or gas filled on them .
Without solvent penetration

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http://davestriples.com/


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 Post subject: Re: H1, 1970
PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:37 pm 

Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 7:28 pm
Posts: 194
Location: West Coast
I am using a high quality auto poly urethane paint and no clear. Should be no prob Epoxy paint prob better choice.


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