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PostPosted: Fri Apr 06, 2018 1:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Your bores are in really good shape it sounds like. A Nikasil bore is hard enough that it will bed new rings in, but the kawasaki triples have iron liners cast in, and need some hone cross hatching to bed new rings properly. So a light hone sounds like what you need, only enough to give the surface something for the rings to bed.
My crankcase 1 into 3 oil line had all three check balls stuck open, I machined the crankcase oil banjo bolts and fit check balls and springs inside them, makes them servicable that way. Check my rebuild thread for the details, "H2 world traveler".

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:10 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 28, 2016 6:19 am
Posts: 45
Location: Milwaukee, WI
So I ordered a hone and some 400 grit stones for my cylinders thru good ol’ Amazon. Came in two days! Gave it a try on my worst cylinder first. It worked really good! Had to go in a couple times, especially with 400 stones, but it cleaned up really good! Good cross hatch pattern and it only took out about .0004” of material. The other two cylinders were cleaner, so I was able to get away with .0002” on those for good clean up. So with that done, I ordered up some new wossner pistons for stock bore. Guy on the phone double checked that I wanted std. bore a couple times, then saying “not too many of those left with stock bores anymore!”

DGA.....I saw your post on your oil line fix. I like it! A few questions. Did you have to do anything to the banjo bolt where the check ball will sit, for example, machine a suitable seat for the check ball? In my particular case, two of the original in line check valves still work. Do you think there would be any problems running another set of check valves downline from the functional ones still in the line? And last (but probably not least), with the main jet screwed into the bottom of the banjo bolt, did that make the overall length of the banjo bolt longer, causing any problems with bottoming out in the case?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Nice deal on the hone, should work well for you. I can get you the details on the banjo bolts tonight if you feel like doing that. I drilled and tapped them in the lathe, but it could be done in a drill press with some careful fixturing and depth setting. I don't see why you couldn't either do one bolt for that stuck check valve, or do them all and have both sets of check valves working. Just check them to make sure they pop or open at around 4 psi and you will be ok.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:32 am
Posts: 615
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Details on the banjo bolt modifications.
Case banjo bolts
Drill #30, .750” deep
Drill #19, .475” deep
Tap M5x.8mm 3/8” deep for small head round Mikuni jets
Use a #30 jet
Use .156” Stainless balls
.116” x .500” springs
You can put a ball in the hole and give it a light punch with a pin punch to make the seat smooth after drilling.The banjo hole is deep enough for the added length of the jet ok. It does not take much preload on the spring to get 4 psi. I ordered the balls and springs from McMaster.com, I love that place.

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1974 Kawasaki H2B 750, 1981 Yamaha XV750 Cafe, 1986 Kawasaki KDX200, 2003 Honda XR100, 2004 SDG140. 2006 Ninja 500R Turbo intercooled fuel injected.


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