Kawi2strokes.com Forum

Yes, those are the gaskets... my error... you can buy them!
Let me revise my reply:
Unless you have $30 to throw away on replacing gaskets and cleaning ports that will do nothing to improve performance or rideability leave them alone.

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Answers are here: http://kawatriple.com/

Well, the $8.99 is for three, but those little bastards must be heavy, because the cheapest shipping option shown for my address is $14.90!

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

$14.90, Luxury!! Don't bother sending a set here!

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"One day, your life will flash before your eyes. Make sure it's worth watching." : anon.

Thanks for the advice on those scavenger pumps.....I will leave them alone. I think someone else told me that back when I bought this bike.

So I'm looking for the factory correct rear foot pegs/footing. My bike was missing one side when I got it. I found that most of the parts for this were still available from Kawasaki, and ordered up the rubber and post. And whatta know.....it's not the same as the one that was still on the bike. My question is, is the one that was on my bike the correct one it came with, or was it replaced at some point? (See pictures of the one that was on my bike)

And I'm also starting to clean up my bodywork. My seat is original and in nice shape, but is starting to get hard and brittle. What was the material they used for the seat covers? I have this stuff (pictured) that works great on leather, but is not recommended on vinyl. Anyone familiar with this product?

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'75 Kawasaki H2C
'75 Yamaha RD350
'75 Honda CB400F
'86 BMW R80
'94 Honda XR650 'street tracker'
'04 Honda RC51
2013 HD Heritage Softail
2013 Triumph Speed Triple R

The one in your picture is correct for 1975. !974 and earlier is different. The rubber and the tube are separate parts and the bright zinc disc on the end of the tube shows at the end of the rubber.

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Tried firing every stroke and every other stroke, every stroke is better.

3 H2's, all stock
Seats by Tony O'Connor, they're gorgeous
H2B, converted to H2C
75 Paint & Decals by Brian H
75 Euro Seat by Tony O'Connor
Eldorado Motorcycle Seats, Australia

Update: I bought three of the crankcase check valve gaskets for $8.99 from Fast from the Past last week. Shipping on his website showed $15.30 UPS to Texas, so I sent a note asking if there was a cheaper shipping option [throw em in an envelope!]
He promptly replied there was - USPS $4.

So the 3 gaskets are $13 shipped, not cheap but about the only option other than making them yourself or using "KawaBond".

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H2B..... H1E..... Z1B ..... RD350...... X6 Hustler..... TS250.... CB750 ..... CB550...... and a Bomber!!

Eric,
I initially thought this whole process just started...and then checked the dates more closely. I see you are still assembling, but I didn't read all the myriad of posts between 2 and 6! I was going to suggest that instead of buying new pistons, that you consider getting the originals coated. Many "race engines" are using this technology and the coatings are more slippery than metal to metal. That's what I'm planning on my S3. I'm going to measure the bores after honing and see where they end up when all cleaned up. Swain says the can add as much as .003 coating, so it might work well to "re-tighten" a worn bore?
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/moto ... ice-sheet/

Cheaper than most new pistons and probably better from a wear stand point. Now I'll try to get back and read the posts in the middle!

Done?!

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H2B..... H1E..... Z1B ..... RD350...... X6 Hustler..... TS250.... CB750 ..... CB550...... and a Bomber!!

Problem is most bores wear not in an even rate. Oval if I remember so coating is great for a friction choice but might not do when there is more wear at the bottom in an oval than at the top. Someone with more experience might be able to shed more light on this. Bore mic the entire bore to see where you are really at. You might be surprised on a bore that is perfect on top and a couple bore jobs out on the bottom end.

Sorry for the silence.....life has been very busy for me for the last year or so and the H2 (as with many of my other bikes) went to the wayside for a bit. Now that I have some time and spare $$$, I’m back on this project! Bike is still mostly apart, but I think I’ve located and purchased all the missing/needed parts to complete this bike. The only thing that keeps me awake at night yet is figuring out what to do about the stuck check valve in my 1 into 3 oil line.

I left off this discussion talking about what to do with my cylinders and piston replacement. The bores, again, are pretty clean but could benefit from a really light hone job. They have never been bored and I would like to keep them this way if possible. Here are some dimensions I got of them.

First measurement is right below the intake port, in line with the intake/exhaust ports. Cylinder 1 - 2.7956” Cylinder 2 - 2.7956” Cylinder 3 - 2.7951”

Second measurement is 90 degrees to the first measurement above, in line with the the transfer ports. Cylinder 1 - 2.7952” Cylinder 2 - 2.7944” Cylinder 3 - 2.7938”

Third measurement is 1/2” below the head deck surface, in line with the intake/exhaust ports. Cylinder 1 - 2.7957” Cylinder 2 - 2.7960” Cylinder 3 - 2.7951”

Fourth measurement is 90 degrees to the third measurement above, in line with the transfer ports. Cylinder 1 - 2.7958” Cylinder 2 - 2.7960” Cylinder 3 - 2.7951”

Curious as to what you all would do and your advice!

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'75 Kawasaki H2C
'75 Yamaha RD350
'75 Honda CB400F
'86 BMW R80
'94 Honda XR650 'street tracker'
'04 Honda RC51
2013 HD Heritage Softail
2013 Triumph Speed Triple R