Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I'd go tubeless in a split second, now I need some Lesters.

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1975 S3 project bike
1974 H1 project bike
1972 Yamaha R5
1974 Yamaha RD350

The rims have to say on them tubeless...........

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Twist the throttle, tilt the horizon, and have a great time. What triples are all about...........

From what I can tell, it was only the later Lesters that were made to run tubeless. Mine have the all black spokes and continuous groove around the side of the rim, and the safety beads to keep the tire in place if it suddenly goes flat. I've run them tubeless since 1979 when I got them.

One of these days I'm going to find out if Lesters without tubes are lighter than stock wheels with tubes. I wish I had weighed mine last time I replaced the tires.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Nice work!!

test

The pics got lost because I moved them in my album....a couple of shots with my exhausts fitted

Glad you finally found some Lesters Steve. Those rims in any year/version are tough to locate, and when they do surface, you usually are up against alot of competition for them. Great looking H2!

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"Only cheat the cheaters, boy - you can't cheat an honest man!" Mordecai Jones - The Flim Flam Man.

I love it when I see people doing it right..Which is what this site seems to be about.
Nice work!

OK Update on H2C its just about finished. Waiting for my R/H caliper to come back from powder-coat then fit and bleed twin disc set up (Not looking forward to that).
Awaiting a seat to come back from upholsterer should be here any day. Hopefully have paint starting soon on my good set of bodywork.
Will post pics shortly......getting close now to starting her up....

Steve..
I found on the Kawi Dual Disc kit, it is best to bleed them from the calipers on up.. Saves a TON of messing around since air likes to get trapped at the splitter for some reason if bleeding the "normal" way.

First thing is to BLEED THE M.C. before even installing it on the bike!!! This step saves a lot of time as well.

Next, I hook a pump (in my case a squirt bottle) full of fresh brake fluid to the bleeder of the left (furthest) caliper and pump/squeeze until the air bubbles stop in the master cylinder. Dont squeeze/pump too hard or fast as to not spray brake fluid all over the pretty paint as it can come out like a Geyser if you are really ham-fisted
(I usually have my wifes's good towels covering the front half of the bike during this process...you know, just-in-case ). Also keep an eye on the fluid level so you don't overfill/spill.
Close that bleeder, remove some fluid from the master (so it doesn't dump all over from over-filling) and move to the right caliper.. Repeat.
It only takes a couple of minutes and 99% of the air is gone.

I then do the the traditional "hose in jar of brake fluid" off of each caliper bleeder just to see if any other bubbles come out. Usually, its just a "hint" and they are gone.. Close the bleeders and done.

I have also used another Master Cylinder clamped to my bike lift to "pump" fluid (and more important.. AIR) UP through the system when they are stubborn.. As was the case for some reason on my RD400 (single disc)? I might have even said a swear word or two when bleeding that bleeding thing ( )
I built the entire brake system (from scratch) in my old 4 wheel drum Chevy C10 pickup and bled the whole thing "myself" (with no help from a mityvac/ect) in less time than it took to bleed that RD caliper..


oh, and by the way.. I got to see the S1C in person. What a lovely little bike. You did a beautiful job on it! Looks like the H2c is going down the same path!