Moo's right on the pump. I've done this a few times and just recently with a complete open case and rebuilt crank.
One thing I changed was to a clear oil line into the pump, I hooked up all the cylinder lines first, filled the tank maybe 1/4 full - let gravity do its thing through the line and just as it was coming out the banjo I screwed it in.
I double checked everything I could see and remember, it started right up. I then hold the pump wide open and you can see the oil (and air pockets) bleeding out and moving through the lines, only take a minute plus it lets you know the pump is working.
Everyone - I put the new Service Bulletin End-Cap and O-ring fix on the pump - no leaks and seems fine.
Here's a vid I did but I was not fast enough to capture the lines bleeding through but it's real obvious when it does. I leave the pump cover off and screw in the tach cable - it keeps the gizmo/assembly from leaking.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21GLwNVBZcYFilm yours for posterity and share with us too please.
PS - It don't matter about how much gear oil - it's a fine line on the type, the amount, the altitude you live in and the ambient temperature. If it leaks this summer you put in too much! I CONSTANTLY dealt with puddles of gear oil until someone here said "just turn the overflow UP" which I did. Base-line is the same for me as spec - 1.5qt (for H2).
PPS - get this - during my reassembly I found a drain-plug gasket in a kit I had. I used it in-place of the home-made one I've been using for 20 years - and the SOB is oozing a little! I'm making a new one myself.
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