Kawi2strokes.com Forum

I took the motor apart yesterday to drill the upper case for cylinder oiling and re-drill the case breather hole that was welded shut.
Crank looked fresh and trans looked very good to. Clutch pressure plate was modified with a steel disc welded to it and heavily braced.
Inside there is a bearing welded for the pusher to ride against. The springs looked thicker than stock and used spacing washers for more
pressure. I replaced the release with one of Ralf's and was planing on using a bearing pusher to, but used the modded setup for now.

Top end is one of Paul Gast and looks fresh. Heavily ported early cylinders and pistons are a unknown type high cut. Worst part of the
whole job was getting the cir-clips out to remove the pistons. They are like a spiral and there is not notch is the pin boss. The late
replacement cases have sleeves installed and the upper rear mount has brass sleeves. So no surprises, everything looked good and I
will now have the early type 3 line oil injection and no more pre-mix.

Nice work Ron, and I'm glad things look good inside.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Sounds like what George did to the clutch pressure plates. He probably either wasn't aware of, or couldn't get to buy one of the aluminum pressure plates back then. Or, he didn't want to spend the money to buy one for the build. He did the same sort of stuff for the ball bearing as well.

One thing I'd recommend when looking at the gearbox, in checking the dog engagements and shimming, you will likely have the output sprocket and clutch assemblies off the two trans shafts. There needs to be spacers over the shafts to put a slight bit of tension on them, to load the shafts into their locator ball bearings. What I do is use two short lengths of PCV tubing, over the shafts and up against a finger tight holder nut, output shaft and input shaft. This way, the shafts can be shimmed without any side to side looseness issues.

Just more stuff from days of olde.

Like reading Ron's stuff

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This is true. Where I grew up the hills were so steep and long, when your ball rolled down the hill you just said "screw it"...

Trans looked real good Dave, he must have left it alone . Think I'm going to replace the modded pressure plate with a aluminum one and also use Ralf's pusher. With Ralf's release I can't get the clutch to fully disengage. The stock release must have a longer arm for more throw. If I tighten the release any
farther with the allen screw adjuster it just releases the clutch plates and disengages the kick starter. Happy that George didn't do the top end.
Lot of weird stuff he did, took a full day to undo most of it. It's a good running and shifting bike, and the price was right.

Shorter arm = more disengagement

You can add a hole in the arm closer to the center to get more disengagement.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

Yup, All that pressure plate stuff was done before the aluminum end ones arrived, and we all did a version of that. Even a stock low power H1R would tear the clutch up if this wasn't done, and they were dry clutches, much better than wet ones.

From what I was saying before about the spacers, in your picture, input shaft has nothing between the clutch end of the shaft and the ball bearing. I simply made a PVC spacer toat fits over the shaft, and is long enough to tighten the shaft against the bearing with it and the clutch nut in place and finger tight. Did dame for O/S.

As far as the leverage ratio on releases, I modded them way back in the early '70's, only way to make any release work right, no matter the clutch. Worst scenario, any Barnett friction plated clutch, they sucked up the trans fluids, expanded, and dragged, no stopping them until the Barnett plates were removed and banished.

Well, you can get around it with a hydraulic actuator. That's what I did back then, and still do. With the stock actuator and the Barnett plates, a couple drag type starts would make the lever pull the the bar with the clutch still half engaged, until the plates cooled off again.

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If it surges, that's normal, upshift.

So I will modify the release lever than, great idea. Not sure if the clutch slips, once I get it sorted will find out. My first two H2's I
used Ralf's pusher and release with stock clutch with HD springs. Pull wasn't to hard and it wouldn't slip either. This motor I'm sure is
making a lot more power.

I used to live a couple of miles from Barnett, like their metal plates, and really like their springs, but I never met a Barnett friction plate I liked.

Metal Frictions in Washington state made the best friction plates, Vesrah works as well.